*Top ranking from the search data of the Skinobs platform

The Skinobs half-yearly audience report provides insights into the trends of claims in the cosmetic testing sector, based on the users search on the Skinobs platform, for both preclinical (in-silico, in-vitro, or ex-vivo…) and clinical (in-vivo) trials. For years now, testing services for Beauty have been influenced by many drivers, from technological advances such as optical innovations, A.I, biomarkers discovery to consumer expectations. Preclinical trials and clinical studies enable ingredients and cosmetics brands to communicate the performance of their products to their customers, giving the evaluation of product tolerance or efficacy a highly strategic position in the launch development process.

Preclinical assays, new claims emerging, focused on well-ageing and moisturizing

The beauty industry’s evolving market trends have led to significant advancements in preclinical evaluation methods. These methods, including in-silico, in-tubo, in-vitro, and ex-vivo assays, assess various factors such as safety, stability, biodegradability, and efficacy. Key developments stem from a deeper understanding of skin biology and biomarker discovery, alongside innovative assay platforms. These platforms facilitate testing on cells, cocultures, and sophisticated models like 3D skin constructs and organ-onchip systems using microfluidics. By incorporating neurons, capillaries, and ther skin elements, these models offer enhanced complexity and more accurate, real-life testing conditions.

In the beginning of 2024, new claims have appeared in the most searched, such as “moisturizing”, “smoothing”, “anti-inflammatory” and “radiance”, gaining prominence behind the dominant “anti-ageing” claim.

This transition reflects a change towards a more holistic approach, known as “well-ageing”. Rather than focusing on fighting the signs of ageing, this trend emphasizes maintaining skin health, the skin natural beauty and wellbeing. This change in rhetoric appeals to consumers who are increasingly looking for products that support long-term care and wellness, rather than short-term fixes, and a more balanced and realistic view of ageing.

Overall, there is less research on efficacy tests and a more balanced distribution with the other test categories. The increased importance of research into consultancy services reflects a move towards informed and scientifically based product development. At the same time, the increase in research into UV in-vitro tests shows the importance of these evaluations as a guarantee of their correct and safe use by consumers. These research trends collectively illustrate a dynamic and evolving approach within the cosmetics industry, driven by the need for ever greater safety, scientifically proven efficacy and alignment with holistic and informed consumer demands.

Clinical evaluation, the rise of well-ageing

On the clinical evaluation field, we are seeing a similar increase in the importance of searches for the “ageing well” claim, which has become one the most searched on the platform, with the “moisturizing” claim. With associated claims such as “firming” or “barrier function”, this confirms a growing shift towards a more holistic approach to skincare, which focuses on overall wellbeing rather than simply combating the visible signs of ageing. The demand for beauty routines that act holistically is helping to develop new tests based on neuroscientific approaches.

Biometrological testing remains at the forefront of research, accounting for 69% of all tests, when it was only 55% in 2023. Despite this uprising, the split is now more balanced between consumers tests (7%) and tolerance testing (8%).

This report sheds light on the evolving landscape of cosmetic testing, providing valuable guidance to brands and stakeholders in the industry, aiding them in aligning their product development strategies with emerging consumer demands and preferences.

Overall, these changes signify a paradigm shift in beauty science, emphasizing a holistic understanding of human biology and its connection to beauty. It shows the industry’s commitment to innovation and inclusivity, driven by advancements in technology and a deeper comprehension of human physiology.

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