1 – ORION CONCEPT HAS BEEN DEVELOPING SKIN MEASURING DEVICES FOR MORE THAN 20 YEARS, WOULD YOU LIKE TO TELL US A LITTLE MORE ABOUT HS DYNAMICS AND THE IMAGE ANALYSIS SERVICES YOU OFFER TO BRANDS IN THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY?
“We have always sought to meet the needs of experimenters for clinical trials in the field of dermo-cosmetology as accurately as possible.” Testers” ourselves for more than 25 years, we have always remained close to the need, where the quality of a measurement is defined. The methodology in cosmetology is particular and the devices are often from other fields, often medical and used in different methodologies. Adaptation is not always so easy and often at the expense of the experimenter.
The HS Dynamics is a good example, because it is a device entirely dedicated to cosmetology and not from a transfer. Other instruments, which have become references, allow the acquisition of calibrated photographic shots in different modes. Initially defined for use in a “medical clinic” and not for kinetic monitoring of cosmetic effects, their use remains very “dependent user” and large variations may appear, especially due to a delicate repositioning for an inexperienced user. Unfortunately, these variations cannot be made up for in retrospect by a post calibration or correction as learned as it is.
The HS Dynamics has been designed to allow these acquisitions by completely freeing itself from these problems by a perfect mastery of positioning, lighting, and their reproducibility. With our experience of our photographic acquisition tables distributed all over the world and used by the largest cometic groups and CROs, we have solved all these problems one by one, thus making the device “non-user dependent”. Added to this, a quantitative control of the colorimetry and exposure of the images is carried out in real time on the acquired images to overcome systematic post-calibrations and… Costly. »
2 – THE BIOMECHANICAL PROPERTIES OF THE SKIN ARE AT THE HEART OF THE CLAIMS OF ANTI-AGING PRODUCTS AND YOU WORKED ON THE DEVELOPMENT OF DYNASKIN A FEW YEARS AGO. WHAT ARE FOR YOU, THE NOVELTIES THAT THE SKINFLEX BRINGS IN THE QUANTIFICATION OF SKIN FIRMNESS AND ELASTICITY?
“As with calibrated photography, our thinking has led to a pragmatic development. The DynaSkin developed with the company Eotech about ten years ago now consists in creating a deformation of the skin and the underlying tissues by a calibrated breath of air, without contact. The 3D acquisition system was an attractive and relevant solution to quantify this type of acquisition but limited its use.
The SkinFlex, finalized today, uses the same principle but with a continuous acquisition via a fast high-frequency camera of this skin deformation, from its initialization to its relaxation (not accessible with the Dynaskin). The system is therefore autonomous with a hand probe, usable on all parts of the body including the face thanks to its two pre-calibrated breath intensities. The parameters of FIRMNESS, TONICITY (speed of relaxation of the skin very correlated with aging) and TENSION are directly calculated. Standard rheology parameters such as Uf, Uv, Ue… etc. can also be obtained. »
3 – THE TREND OF NOMADIC EVALUATIONS BECOMES IN THE CONTEXT OF THE HEALTH CRISIS, AN APPROACH SOUGHT BY MANY CLINICAL TESTING LABORATORIES. TO RESPOND TO THIS TREND, YOU DEVELOPED, 3 YEARS AGO THE HEADSCAN WHICH IS NOW REPLACED BY ITS NEW VERSION THE HOMELAB. COULD YOU PRESENT US THIS NEW DEVICE AND TELL US WHAT OBJECTIFIVATION IT CAN BE ASSOCIATED WITH?
“The history of this device goes back several years. Admittedly, remote evaluation is an old demand, but which suffered from a lack of easily available resources (autonomous biometrology sensors, photographic acquisition tools as well as tools for secure collection of data in real time). In the last 5 to 10 years, everything has accelerated, and the approach has become technically possible. The democratized use of smartphones/tablets of Internet boxes in homes, the very mentalities make these new approaches possible. At the same time, a need to monitor the effect of products “in real condition” has increased. Very recently, the health crisis has forced the profession to evolve the model of clinical trials and to find alternative and complementary solutions to the existing one.
The “HomeLab” today allows a multimodal metrology by the subject himself, at home: taking calibrated photographs (18Mpx) in white light with and without shine, front and profile, questionnaires, metrology (hydration and firmness) managed by an embedded and connected computer. Everything is modular according to the need and the design of study. The acquired data can be transferred in real time to a secure server at the name of the GDPR at the choice of the investigator. A chat is being developed to create a channel of exchange between the investigating center and the subject participating in the study.
Beyond a remote biometrology device, the HomeLab improves compliancewith the protocol and ensures a continuous link with the study subjects.We also worked a lot on the analysis of very large data (daily acquisitions!) by using A.I. for the optimization of these treatments. »
4 – AS AN EXPERT IN VISUAL OR QUANTITATIVE SKIN OBJECTIFICATION, COULD YOU TELL US HOW YOU PERCEIVE THE EVOLUTION OF ANALYSIS TECHNOLOGIES AND WHAT INFLUENCES THEY WILL HAVE ON THE DEVELOPMENT OF NEW PRODUCTS IN THE FIELD OF BEAUTY?
“The need of consumers is constantly evolving. The discourse that must be held on cosmetic products must also evolve to constantly meet this need. Mentalities are also changing! Metrology and objective and clinical evaluation must also evolve. From experience, nothing ever disappears in favor of a “new technology” as powerful as it is, but a complement of knowledge of the “product” can be brought on its objective activity AND its acceptability. The deported measure, for example, will not make the “conventional tests” disappear, would have been a mistake. It provides another complementary information that responds to a changing need and to hold another discourse.
“Big data”, “Artificial Intelligence”, two-photon imaging… yes, without a doubt, but in the service of a purpose and a broader objective than mere objectification. There will be no artificial intelligence to compensate for a lack of natural intelligence…
This is where the real innovation sits: the evolution of both the products and the means of apprehending their admissibility to the end user. No disruptive innovation, it is a decoy, just a match between an evolving need and an adapted and therefore “new” response.
“Cosmetology” should not be limited to the objective quantification of effects by increasingly sophisticated technologies. It would be limited to a restricted field offset from the expectations of users: “Effective, yes, for sure but also because I want to feel good, to see it in my mirror and in the eyes of others”. What will tomorrow be for the evolution of analysis technologies? What we will do with it in the service of the new needs of a variegated and evolving market of users and not the other way around. »
CONTACT
Jean Christophe PITTET – PhD
113 rue des Bordiers,
37100 TOURS, FRANCE
(33) 2 47 05 23 16
orion@orion-concept.com
Orion Concept
