The Cosmetics Testing News

Suivez l’actualité des tests dédiée aux innovations et tendances d’évaluation des actifs, ingrédients, cosmétiques et dispositifs médicaux

A New Look at Human Fat in Cosmetic Research by ExAdEx-Innov

November 23, 2023

Subcutaneous adipose tissue, the hypodermis, helps preserving good skin health and appearance, through multiple interactions with the dermis and epidermis. It is a well-vascularized and innervated tissue, which contains a multitude of different cell types, such as mature adipocytes, endothelial and lymphatic cells, immune cells and stem cells. These different cell types form a single, complex endocrine tissue to regulate metabolism and energy balance as well as stimulate vascularization and lymphatic drainage, and are also involved in skin stress, such as inflammation and fibrosis.

Good health of subcutaneous fat is fundamental in many cosmetic indications to improve the general appearance of the skin. Concrete examples are cellulite and dark circles: an induction of fibrosis or reduction in blood and lymphatic circulation contribute to these phenomena.

How can we support specific claims and evaluate new active ingredients or reposition existing active ingredients and products, opening for new perspectives?

A BREAKTHROUGH INNOVATION IN THE FIELD OF HUMAN FAT

ExAdEx-Innov has a unique asset: a native human fat that remains viable and functional in laboratory conditions for up to six weeks and that recapitulates different physio-pathological conditions of interest for developers of cosmetic and nutraceutical active ingredients and products.

ExAdEx 3D models of human adipose tissue are directly derived from donors, without the addition of any exogenous elements, and retain the 3D tissue structure and complexity of the original human fat, thanks to a patented process developed by researchers of Côte d’Azur University and Hospital University of Nice. These are the only models that allow to demonstrate effects of active ingredients and compounds at the structural level on multiple targets: tissue matrix, vascular network, lymphatic network, thermogenesis, anti-inflammatory and anti-fibrotic effect, etc.

Unlike skin explants and skin models that include the upper layers of the epidermis and dermis, human subcutaneous fat models have historically been difficult to maintain in culture. 2D models, co-culture or 3D reconstruction models are currently proposed for human fat, but they do not represent the true structure and function of native human fat. The patented and exclusive technology used by ExAdEx-Innov allows major advances in cosmetic research.

A TRUE SWISS ARMY KNIFE FOR RESEARCH

A single model of ExAdEx human mini-fat maintained in culture under the appropriate conditions can support many claims at once:

Regulation of metabolism and weight management claims;
Fat burning and slimming claims;
Anti-aging claims;
Cellulite reduction claims (aqueous, fibrous and adipose cellulite);
Anti-inflammatory and anti-fibrosis claims;
Firmness and smoothness claims;
Tissue matrix remodeling claims.

This is made possible thanks to an expert and passionate team dedicated to the development and industrial applications of new research models, who have developed and are constantly developing new tests and tools for all levels of investigation, from screening assays to the most in-depth analyses:

Analyses of ExAdEx adipose tissue secretion in culture;
Analyses of ExAdEx adipose tissue transcriptome;
3D and 4D imaging techniques for better visualization of the interactions between the different components of ExAdEx adipose tissue;
Sophisticated techniques for the characterization of ExAdEx adipose tissue exposed to active ingredients: flow cytometry/FACS, identification of markers, innovative mechanisms of action, matrix structures, etc.;
Custom projects on specific tissue profiles and body fat depots.