October was the month to meet testing experts during two shows, Cosmetorium in Barcelona and Cosmetic 360 in Paris.

At this occasion the Skinobs team has the opportunity to speak with several actors of the testing field whether it is safety, tolerance or efficacy testing using in-vitro or in-vivo studies. It was the time to discover the latest innovations of testing laboratories and instrumentation manufacturers. Here are the main information we would like to share with you. This a non comprehensive panorama of the testing innovations but it summarises the highlights that we noticed.

• 🏆 Special award at Cosmetic360 for SGS proderm Their pioneering work, ‘Collagen Attenuation: A New Aging Parameter,’ has impressed the jury and brought them the prestigious recognition. Using the LC-OCT technology to analyse, visualize and quantify the effect of cosmetics products on the skin ageing. Congrats 🎇

• Microbiome testing is becoming more refined

Knowledge of these tests is becoming more refined Tests studying the microbiota are evolving towards more and more veracity. It is clear to leading players that cell counting is only a first step in screening and that it is difficult to rely on this test to claim a microbiome-friendly effect. At the same time, tests using high-tech methods such as genomic, proteomic or metabolomic are on the rise and are essential for drawing up an overview of bacterial strains and for quantifying their evolution before and after treatment with:

• • Hugues Baéza, Genoscreen presented GenoBiome, a sequencing analysis of the microbiota enabling the “microbiome-friendly” claim. the metagenomic and genomic technologies
  • Microbiota friendly certification by BioFilm Control and the large range of analysis thy are able to offer.
  • Scilicium which presented Omicskin/SmartOmic in partnership with Eurosafe CRO. It is a transcriptomic analysis service that makes it possible to predict the effectiveness of ingredients or formulas. qui présentait Omicskin/SmartOmic.
    
  • StratiCell and their new assys to 2D and 3D in vitro testing to evaluate the efficacy of skin care products on human microbiota and its interaction with the skin

• Production characterisation

Product analysis becomes an essential test when talking about “clean-beauty” to ensure that these components will not leave indelible traces in the environment. Thus, Mérieux Nutrisciences provides a solution for the quantification of microplastics and the control of PFAs or “Forever Chemicals” (per and polyfluoroalkyl), substances that can be used in water- or perspiration-resistant formulas. the 6napse group team explains their way to quantify the composition of products and the new way to characterize the naoparticles using electron microscopy.

• Skinification of the hair

Hair is an integral part of one’s identity, and people around the world place a great deal of importance on its look and style. Consumers are now looking for more inclusive, natural, ethical, and sustainable products that can help them improve their hair grooming rituals while still providing the necessary cleansing and caring benefits.
Biometrological measurements to assess hair care performance Evaluating the efficacy and safety of hair and scalp grooming products and treatments, as well as improving them for the beauty market, is a key part of R&D. For this, clinical tests, biometrological studies, and in-vivo or hair strand tests are used. However, the challenge for evaluation managers and cosmetic chemists is to find the right method, a reliable protocol, and a suitable testing partner.

• • SP Equation presented their innovation on make-up coverage and the measurement of the flexabrasion of the hair.
  • Hair Skinification unveiled by Mérieux with new assays in-vitro, ex-vivo on str”ands and in-vivo.
  • CIDP Bespoke services for hair care in Brazil, India.
  • Kamax presented an innovative protocol to measure skin hydration. It is a corneocyte analysis that allows to obtain roughness parameters and 3D visuals in 4K. As usual Kamax offers capillary evaluation with XFluo 3D. XFluo® 3D offers both quantitative and qualitative analyses of hair surface roughness (Rq). HD visuals provide opportunities to: make videos of hair to compare before / after hair care and custom images according to desired hair color. XFluo® 3D combines advantages of interferometry and MEB and is a breath of fresh air on capillary evaluation methods (here).
  • Chowis and their new device to study hair that seems to be very useful for shop evaluation. As soons as testing laboratories will use their device, it will be referenced in the platform. Coming soon!
  • Oxiproteomics, was thrilled to present their cutting-edge innovations in hair care efficacy testing in the frame of the hair skinification trend. With their integrative 3D approach for hair fibers, scalp, and hair follicles, they showcased our commitment to advancing the science behind hair care.

👉 Discover complementary information about hair evaluation in the #28th ZOOM edition, with all you need to know about hair care evaluation ! Read the PDF version  or View the flip-book.

• A new way to evaluates foundation by CIDP and Microfactory
  

Traditionally, evaluating foundations efficiency has been a time-consuming and expensive process, involving testing on a panel of volunteers to assess parameters such as color variation, skin evenness, dullness, and shine. Although we were able to standardize the process, there was still a risk that some formulas would be rejected due to significant differences in these characteristics. CIDP and Microfactory took up this challenge by developing new and innovative methodologies to predict the effectiveness of foundations faster, more cost-effectively and more accurately. The U-Skin™ technology developed by Microfactory is based on a revolutionary microfluidic skin model. It simulates sebum and perspiration secretions under a controlled flow, providing a predictive method for evaluating foundation performance. This in vitro approach can be performed in less than three hours, significantly reducing the time required for product evaluation.

• Measurement and IA

• • Share an oversight on their technologies U-Skin™, Smart-Pore™ mimicking the skin’s sebum and sweat excretion on an articficial skin and their new innovation T-Skin™ that faithfully reproduces the evaporation of water from human skin with a sensor for measuring TEWL It enables to evaluate the skin barrier evaluation by Microfactory

• Photoprotection

  • New test for long UVA rays protection by Helioscreen
  • Abich Lifeanalytics unveils the efficacy of photoprotection of hair on strands.
  • DermaProof Asia ex-Spincontrol Asia : specialist in the evaluation of the effectiveness of cosmetic products and sun tests in Asia. It is still Perin Fabrice Perin who is managing the laboratory.

• In silico analysis

It represents computer and predictive screening and predictors of the effects of substances on skin irritation or various efficacy performance. Analysis via bioinformatics in silico prediction models to assess the intrinsic properties of chemicals or performance and activities. Several type of modules produced by the experts fulfil endpoints of regulatory dossiers. These  aims to be the most reliable and accurate in silico approach to replace all kinds of experimental studies related to human health and the environment. We retrieved Insilibio and Greenpharma.

• Miscelleanous

  • Igonogo made us dream with their AI-augmented online survey software that reveals your customers’ emotions. Their unique technology captures the unspoken via the movement of the finger on a smartphone and provides actionable results in real time to support decision-making.
  • We met a new actor of the consulting part for claims and instrumentatio: Mr Jean-Jacques Servant, former CEO of EOTECH and now expert at ACT4C. You could find his expertise in the Skinobs platform. Coming soon!
  • Pascale Barlier, founder of cosandco supports brands to better design their in-vivo protocols and she is also preparing a fantastic projgect around the technicians working directly in the testing labs. Coming soon!
  • We were glad to attend the Live démo, by Cécile Guyot, of the new Coptis features with the toxicology file integration.
  • The Toucgy Finger and the AdhelaSkin developped by the LTDS R&D center,  technologies innovantes pour l’évaluation de l’efficacité de la douceur de la peau et des cheveux pour le premier et de la fermeté pour le second (beaucoup plus sexy que le cutomètre ;)). Merci beaucoup Vargiolu Roberto pour les explications !
  • Dermaclaim, with specific kwow-how in in-vivo evaluation of all aging mechanisms
  •  Bionos Biotech S.L., with a cutting-edge knowledge of in-vitro & in-vivo evaluation for skin gaeing, regeneration and microbiota
  •  Dr. GOYA ANÁLISIS, with smart expertise of actives and cosmetics evaluation from analytics, safety to efficacy for skin tolerance and efficacy
  •  PhD Trials®, with innovative talents to face new imaging challenges of cosmetics evaluation.
  • Complife Group, with specific support for in-vitro and in-vivo evaluation in Europe and China.
  • Imasens shared their view on temporal sensoriality of textures with simultaneous evaluation of several sensations with different temporality.
  • Actalia Sensoriel unveils their latest study around the evolution of consumer experience of solid vs liquid shampoo.
  • Safety and toxicology were 2 subjects we discussed with Frederic NUNZI, SGS Idea, to follow the evolutions of modeles and OECD methods.

Feel free to ask a Live démo of the Skinobs platform whether prelinical or clinical testing and send your request to users@skinobs.com!

Thank you for your attention 🙂