European testing highlights by Skinobs via ZOOM#32

In recent years, Europe market is increasingly focused on clean beauty and sustainability. The use of organic, cruelty-free, and ethically sourced ingredients has become a key selling point, appealing to environmentally aware consumers who seek products that align with their values.

This includes the use of wellness-oriented products that incorporate aromatherapy, herbal ingredients, and mindful practices into daily routines. The European notion of “skinimalism” promotes minimalism in skincare, focusing on fewer, high-quality products that enhance the skin’s natural beauty.

Additionally, the European beauty industry is known for its strong ties to scientific research and proof. Brands often collaborate with dermatologists and scientists to develop effective formulations data-backed by clinical studies. This scientific rigor reassures consumers of product efficacy and safety, further driving trust and loyalty.

The boom of AI driven technologies

2024 really marked the rise of AI in the cosmetic industry. During the Skinobs team visit to Cosmetic 360, in October 2024, we could not help but notice how AI has now taken a key role in the cosmetic industry, with companies such as PerfectGPT, DermaGPT, Gravel AI, the Good Face Project, or FairGlow.

With AI, consumers now can virtually try-on makeup using their smartphones, analyse their skin conditions and concerns, and even access AI powered virtual consultants or assistants. These tools are allowing consumers to find the best products for their need through immersive and customer-centric experiences powered by precise AI technologies. According to a recent report by McKinsey, the global beauty industry is expected to see AI-driven tools influence up to 70% of customer interactions by 2027.

This shift reflects the demand for personalized beauty products and tailored solutions.

Clean Beauty

In recent years, Europe market is increasingly focused on clean beauty and sustainability. The use of organic, cruelty-free, and ethically sourced ingredients has become a key selling point, appealing to environmentally aware consumers who seek products that align with their values.

This includes the use of wellness-oriented products that incorporate aromatherapy, herbal ingredients, and mindful practices into daily routines. The European notion of “skinimalism” promotes minimalism in skincare, focusing on fewer, high-quality products that enhance the skin’s natural beauty.

Additionally, the European beauty industry is known for its strong ties to scientific research and proof. Brands often collaborate with dermatologists and scientists to develop effective formulations data-backed by clinical studies. This scientific rigor reassures consumers of product efficacy and safety, further driving trust and loyalty.

Product analysis becomes an essential test when it comes to “clean beauty”, to ensure that these components will not leave indelible traces in the environment. Many testing laboratories offer solutions for quantifying microplastics and PFAs or “Forever Chemicals” (per and polyfluoroalkyl), substances that can be used in water- and perspiration-resistant formulas. The methods enable composition and concentration to be determined, and substances such as nanoparticles to be visually characterized by electron microscopy.

Companies are also shifting towards a more eco-responsible working environment: Weneos, formerly Helioscreen, is implementing a “Corporate Social Responsibility” approach in their daily work.

In-vitro UV testing

In vitro UV testing has also become increasingly important as a public health issue. This category of testing is uniquely governed by ISO Good Standard Practice, which ensures consistency and reliability of assessment methods across the world (with exceptions in some regions). Whatever the mechanism of action being studied, the industry is gradually adopting a hybrid assessment approach linking in vitro tests with in-vivo studies.

At the I Feel Good event in Paris, in September 2024, Innov&Sea showcased their “VIRIDIS” test, to assess the toxicity of sunscreen products (raw materials or finished products) on the marine environment. At the end of the test, an eco-responsibility score is assigned to the product, which is the perfect indicator to help you improve the formulation of your suncare products and achieve an eco-responsible claim.

This approach is facilitated by innovations in increasingly sophisticated and specific skin models. These 3D skin models can now include elements such as capillaries, neurons and specificities linked to sensitivity, age or pigmentation, enabling a more accurate representation of skin reactions. These technological developments not only improve the accuracy of assessments, but also their variety, as these improved models provide more complete and reliable data.

Weneos, formerly known as Helioscreen, just announced the launching of their new service dedicated to evaluating cosmetics products’ sun protection using the HDRS (Hybrid Diffuse Reflectance Spectroscopy) method. The HDRS method proposed a hybrid approach combining in-vitro and in-vivo tests to assess the SPF (Sun Protection Factor), UPF (UVA Protection Factor) and CW (Critical Wavelength) of sunscreens. It uses diffuse reflectance spectroscopy (DRS) to measure UVA absorbance (320-400 nm) on the skin of a human volunteer with and without prior application of a sunscreen product.

To obtain a complete UV absorbance spectrum, the in-vitro absorbance values are adjusted according to the data obtained via DRS, enabling the in-vitro UVB absorbance to be mathematically linked via hybridization to the UVA portion measured by DRS in-vivo.