The beauty industry is constantly shifting, and the past decades have been a transformative journey: with new technologies such as AI, and consumers being more and more aware of the products they are using, Korean beauty emerged as a major actor, setting new standards for products efficacy, ingredients, and product diversity.

Fueled by internet, social media, and growing interest in skincare blending deeply rooted in centuries old tradition, culture and ancient practices with modern scientific advancements in research and formulations. Moreover, Korean brands, as well as OEM/ODMs, are the driving force behind new marketing concepts, not hesitating to pick up on the weak signals of the expectations of well-informed beauty consumers.

Influence of culture: Hallyu

This global rise in popularity of the South Korean culture is known as “Hallyu”, or “Korean Wave”, and include a wide range of cultural elements: K-Pop, K-Dramas, Movies, and K-Beauty.

In South Korea, beauty is more than just appearance; it’s a culture of self-care and well-being. The influence of K-Beauty, driven by the global popularity of Korean pop culture, cannot be overstated. K-Beauty trends, characterized by meticulous skincare routines and innovative products, have transcended borders, setting global beauty standards. The “glass skin” trend, emphasizing a flawless, dewy complexion, and the 7 steps skincare routine, including cleanser, toner, essences, sheet mask, eye cream, moisturizer and sun protection are examples of how South Korean beauty standards have a global influence.

Korean cosmetics science is also largely influenced by traditions: most of the beauty formulations are a fusion of modern science, with technologies such as microencapsulation, microneedle, bioengineering, fermentation and time-tested skincare ingredients, such as centella asiatica, or green tea.

Animal testing & 3R principle

The cosmetics industry requires alternative testing methods to replace animal testing, which is no longer ethically acceptable. In-silico, in-vitro, and ex-vivo methods provide essential, reliable safety data as predictors of human tolerance. New Approach Methodology and Non-Animal Alternative Methods (NAMs) are integral to routine toxicity testing of ingredients and cosmetics, adhering to the 3R principle for Replacement, Reduction, and Refinement of animal experiments. These methods ensure consumer safety through rigorous, ethical scientific evaluation.

In 2015, a law in Republic of Korea passed which mandates the use of non-animal alternative tests for certain cosmetics determined by the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety (MFDS), effective in 2018. Still, in 2022, South Korea’s annual statistics on scientific use of animals reveal a record-high 4,995,680, continuing an alarming upward trend.

However, MFDS specifies six situations which animal testing can be adopted:

1. to determine the standards for using raw materials requiring a specific restriction on usage, such as preservatives, coloring or sun-blocks…
2. because no alternative to animal testing exists.
3. to export cosmetics following the regulations of specific countries.
4. for product development following the regulations of the importing country.
5. when raw materials developed through animal testing conducted under other regulations are used for the manufacture, etc. of cosmetics.
6. Other cases prescribed by MFSD, where it is impractical to conduct alternatives to animal testing.

Functional products & Korean regulations

In South Korea, “functional products” typically refer to skincare and cosmetic items that go beyond basic beauty benefits to offer additional functional properties aimed at improving skin health or addressing specific concerns. These products are often formulated with active ingredients and technologies that provide targeted solutions, such as anti-aging, whitening/brightening, hydration, soothing/calming, acne treatment, and UV protection.

Functional cosmetics can be divided into several categories when cosmetics products help to:

• whiten the skin
• improve skin wrinkles
• gently tan the skin or to protect from UV
• change or eliminate hair color, or to nourish the hair
• prevent or improve dryness, split ends, hair loss, keratinization., resulting from a weakened function of the skin or hair

Importance of R&D and marketing

K-Beauty companies invest heavily in R&D and innovation, collaborating with scientists and dermatologists to create effective and safe products. This scientific approach offers skincare solutions based on proven data, ensuring consumer satisfaction and loyalty.

K-Beauty brands excel in marketing and product design. The packaging is often innovative and appealing, making the user experience pleasant and luxurious. Moreover, marketing campaigns are well-targeted and effectively use social media to reach a global audience.

The manufacturers, the major cosmetics groups and above all the indie brands are on the lookout for all the new expectations of consumers and the weak signals of Korean women’s beauty routines. Each trend is studied and then the subject of an original product launch, with formulations and packaging precisely targeted at specific consumers.

Data backed claims and scientific in-vivo evaluation

One of the distinguishing features of Korean beauty is the commitment to providing a diverse product range that caters to various skin types and concerns. Unlike traditional one-size-fits-all skin types, Korean beauty brands understand the nuanced nature of skincare answering unique skin conditions. This understanding is reflected in the development of products tailored for specific skin concerns, from acne-prone skin to dryness or sensitivity.

• Among the well-known consumer testing and sensory analysis, we can distinguish some key biometrological evaluations that are implemented through various instrumentation (*among other) and technologies:
• Radiance and complexion

Soothing, anti-redness, sun protection, brightening, glass skin, exfoliation, luminous, makeup, BB cream claims are generally substantiated using 3 types of analysis that visualize and analyze the skin:

• Face overall using: VisioFace, ColorFace, Visia Complexion, HeadScan Dynamics, F-Ray*…
• Skin surface using: AEVA HE, Nomad&Skin Cam, TIVI80 Spot Analyser, Antera3D, VisioScan, C-Cube*…
• Skin gloss: Goniolux, SambaFace, Transluderm, Antera3D, Glossymeter, C-Cube* …

• Rejuvenation & Longevity:

Skin cell turnover, rejuvenating, sun protection, deep hydration, anti-ageing, even skin tone, skin elasticity, skin barrier, firmness, anti-sagging…

• Mechanical properties: Cutiscan, Cutometer, Indentometer, Dynaskin II, Dermalab Elasticity, Ballistometer* …
• Relief topography: VisioScan, Antera 3D,Primos, EvaSkin, AEVA-HE, C-Cube*…

• Acne-prone skin & sebum: BB cream effect, limit inflammation, reduce redness, covering, breathable, anti-blemishes, anti-imperfections
  • Sebum control: DermaLab, Quantiseb, Sebufix, Sebumeter, SebumScale
  • Pore size and pigmentation cf. skin surface instrumentation above

• Hair skinification: scalp care, moisturizing, purifying (scalp), anti-hair loss, exfoliating (scalp), nourishing, refreshing, thickening
  • Scalp conditions cf. skin surface analysis and moisturizing: Corneometer, Tewameter, MoistureMap*…
  • Hair structure and surface: Epsilon, Vivascope, XFluo 3D*…
  • Hair growth and strength
  • Hair styling

Connect for FREE on skinobs.com to search clinical evaluation methods, claims, laboratories and device manufacturers all around the world. Skinobs reference more than 40 laboratories and manufacturers in South Korea.

Finally, understanding the intricate physico-chemical and physiological mechanisms of the skin is a major challenge for scientists substantiating claims. Recently, device manufacturers have introduced advanced skin analysis techniques such as F-Ray (Beyoung), blending quantification and visualization for nearly all claims. Figures provide scientific data, while images offer clear evidence of product performance, easily appreciated by Korean consumers through digital purchasing channels. Innovative technologies are now standard, but maintaining scientific rigor in both materials and processes is essential. Accurate system calibration, device mastery, and precision in routine assessments are crucial to avoid irrelevant adjustments. Korean CROs whom rate is the highest per capita in the world can provide cutting-edge technology, deep skin knowledge, and effective scientific communication to meet new skin and hair evaluation consumer expectations.

Contact

Anne Charpentier

CEO of Skinobs

acharpentier@skinobs.com

www.skinobs.com