Fueled by internet, social media, and growing interest in skincare blending deeply rooted in centuries old tradition, culture and ancient practices with modern scientific advancements in research and formulations. Moreover, Korean brands, as well as OEM/ODMs, are the driving force behind new marketing concepts, not hesitating to pick up on the weak signals of the expectations of well-informed beauty consumers.
Influence of culture: Hallyu
This global rise in popularity of the South Korean culture is known as “Hallyu”, or “Korean Wave”, and include a wide range of cultural elements: K-Pop, K-Dramas, Movies, and K-Beauty.
In South Korea, beauty is more than just appearance; it’s a culture of self-care and well-being. The influence of K-Beauty, driven by the global popularity of Korean pop culture, cannot be overstated. K-Beauty trends, characterized by meticulous skincare routines and innovative products, have transcended borders, setting global beauty standards. The “glass skin” trend, emphasizing a flawless, dewy complexion, and the 7 steps skincare routine, including cleanser, toner, essences, sheet mask, eye cream, moisturizer and sun protection are examples of how South Korean beauty standards have a global influence.
Korean cosmetics science is also largely influenced by traditions: most of the beauty formulations are a fusion of modern science, with technologies such as microencapsulation, microneedle, bioengineering, fermentation and time-tested skincare ingredients, such as centella asiatica, or green tea.
Animal testing & 3R principle
The cosmetics industry requires alternative testing methods to replace animal testing, which is no longer ethically acceptable. In-silico, in-vitro, and ex-vivo methods provide essential, reliable safety data as predictors of human tolerance. New Approach Methodology and Non-Animal Alternative Methods (NAMs) are integral to routine toxicity testing of ingredients and cosmetics, adhering to the 3R principle for Replacement, Reduction, and Refinement of animal experiments. These methods ensure consumer safety through rigorous, ethical scientific evaluation.
In 2015, a law in Republic of Korea passed which mandates the use of non-animal alternative tests for certain cosmetics determined by the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety (MFDS), effective in 2018. Still, in 2022, South Korea’s annual statistics on scientific use of animals reveal a record-high 4,995,680, continuing an alarming upward trend.
However, MFDS specifies six situations which animal testing can be adopted:
Functional products & Korean regulations
In South Korea, “functional products” typically refer to skincare and cosmetic items that go beyond basic beauty benefits to offer additional functional properties aimed at improving skin health or addressing specific concerns. These products are often formulated with active ingredients and technologies that provide targeted solutions, such as anti-aging, whitening/brightening, hydration, soothing/calming, acne treatment, and UV protection.
Importance of R&D and marketing
K-Beauty companies invest heavily in R&D and innovation, collaborating with scientists and dermatologists to create effective and safe products. This scientific approach offers skincare solutions based on proven data, ensuring consumer satisfaction and loyalty.
K-Beauty brands excel in marketing and product design. The packaging is often innovative and appealing, making the user experience pleasant and luxurious. Moreover, marketing campaigns are well-targeted and effectively use social media to reach a global audience.
The manufacturers, the major cosmetics groups and above all the indie brands are on the lookout for all the new expectations of consumers and the weak signals of Korean women’s beauty routines. Each trend is studied and then the subject of an original product launch, with formulations and packaging precisely targeted at specific consumers.
Data backed claims and scientific in-vivo evaluation
One of the distinguishing features of Korean beauty is the commitment to providing a diverse product range that caters to various skin types and concerns. Unlike traditional one-size-fits-all skin types, Korean beauty brands understand the nuanced nature of skincare answering unique skin conditions. This understanding is reflected in the development of products tailored for specific skin concerns, from acne-prone skin to dryness or sensitivity.
Soothing, anti-redness, sun protection, brightening, glass skin, exfoliation, luminous, makeup, BB cream claims are generally substantiated using 3 types of analysis that visualize and analyze the skin:
Skin cell turnover, rejuvenating, sun protection, deep hydration, anti-ageing, even skin tone, skin elasticity, skin barrier, firmness, anti-sagging…
Connect for FREE on skinobs.com to search clinical evaluation methods, claims, laboratories and device manufacturers all around the world. Skinobs reference more than 40 laboratories and manufacturers in South Korea.
Finally, understanding the intricate physico-chemical and physiological mechanisms of the skin is a major challenge for scientists substantiating claims. Recently, device manufacturers have introduced advanced skin analysis techniques such as F-Ray (Beyoung), blending quantification and visualization for nearly all claims. Figures provide scientific data, while images offer clear evidence of product performance, easily appreciated by Korean consumers through digital purchasing channels. Innovative technologies are now standard, but maintaining scientific rigor in both materials and processes is essential. Accurate system calibration, device mastery, and precision in routine assessments are crucial to avoid irrelevant adjustments. Korean CROs whom rate is the highest per capita in the world can provide cutting-edge technology, deep skin knowledge, and effective scientific communication to meet new skin and hair evaluation consumer expectations.
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Anne Charpentier
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