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Keynote of the International Symposium : Longevity : The new horizons of beauty by Société Française de Cosmétologie

31 January 2025

In a world where life expectancy continues to increase, the concept of longevity no longer solely pertains to the extension of years (lifespan), but now encompasses the challenge of maintaining good health for as long as possible (healthspan). The cosmetics industry aligns with this dynamic by redefining the anti-aging segment with solutions focused on skin longevity.

During the Symposium “Longevity, the New Horizons of Beauty,” various strategies were explored to address the 12 cellular markers of aging. Covering a spectrum from epigenetics to senescence, and from the microbiome to geroscience and neuroaging, this 18th edition provided an overview of current strategies while also aiming to inspire, presenting promising concepts for the development of future products, and philosophically questioning the pursuit of eternal youth.

Skin Biology

While a global increase in life expectancy of +2.4 years is projected by 2040 (75.9 years), healthy life expectancy is expected to plateau 10 years earlier (65.8 years). The concept of longevity is meaningful only if it incorporates the notion of “aging in good health,” with the objective of maintaining optimal functional capacities for as long as possible, thus pushing the limits of biological age.

Although chronological aging is inevitable, biological aging can be decelerated by targeting selective mechanisms and adopting a preventive rather than curative approach. At the skin level, maintaining healthy skin is a fundamental aspect of this pursuit, despite constant exposure to an exposome that induces biological changes. With over 20 years of research in this field, L’Oréal positions itself as an expert in skin longevity, focusing on geroprotectors that act on various cellular markers of aging.

To simultaneously target multiple aging markers, a holistic approach presented by Mibelle suggests combining cosmetic care with dietary supplementation in an “in & out” beauty routine. For the topical component, a sunflower germ extract capable of stimulating NAD+ (Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide) production by skin cells through activation of the NAMPT enzyme (Nicotinamide Phosphoribosyl Transferase) targets five aging markers in which this molecule is involved. For the oral component, red Monarda (Monarda didyma) extract, containing Didymin, acts on complementary markers.

Another solution proposed by Silab involves the use of myrtle leaf extract (Myrtus communis) to regulate sirtuins and their cofactors (AMPK and NAD+) to delay senescence, along with Ginkgo biloba leaf extract to reactivate the elimination of senescent fibroblasts by the immune system.

Regarding efficacy studies, distinguishing between longevity assessment and anti-aging evaluation is crucial. Longevity-focused actions prioritize prevention, which remains challenging to demonstrate in conventional in vivo studies that primarily measure visible aging effects. While in vitro or ex vivo studies of biomarkers involved in early aging processes are essential for substantiating longevity claims from a mechanistic standpoint, their in vivo evaluation, as proposed by OxiProteomics, serves as a complementary tool to ensure scientific credibility and consumer-relevant benefits.

Conclusion

The cosmetics industry is exploring multiple avenues to extend skin youthfulness, leveraging significant scientific advancements in epigenetics, geroscience, and microbiome modulation. These innovations facilitate the development of more targeted and effective skincare solutions, tailored to individual consumer needs. However, the pursuit of eternally youthful skin also raises philosophical and ethical questions, prompting reflection on our relationship with aging and the very essence of well-being.

https://www.sfcosmeto.fr/actualites-events/focus-by-sfc-janvier-2025/