In recent years, an increase in innovative activity has been detected in the business sector, which is vital for survival if we take into account that we are in a dynamic environment that demands continuous change.

Experience shows that R&D&I projects and actions are carried out, but not always with the full knowledge of what is involved in full implementation, and this can result in the ideas that do become projects consuming more time and resources than initially planned.

The success of bringing a new product to market does not depend solely on the capacity of the technical and human team responsible for the development of the work. In many cases, the success of the R&D project for a new cosmetic can be tarnished by poor management that does not take into account aspects such as meeting objectives on time, communication with the customer, or the tests that are necessary throughout the development.

Below, we will discuss the different bottlenecks that may appear in each of the following stages:

• Quality control

On the one hand, it is necessary to take into account those tests that will be carried out for each batch control, and in this case it is the manufacturer or importer who is responsible for defining these tests according to the type of product and, on the other hand, it is necessary to take into account those tests that are only carried out once in the life of the product, to characterise its Microbiological Quality, Stability and Compatibility with the packaging. These can condition the product when it is placed on the market, since if the results are not favourable, the final data would have to be reformulated or taken into consideration for the marketing strategy, with the time and cost implications that this entails. Normally, from the initial idea of the product, the type of cosmetic form and packaging it will have is defined, but the results of the Quality Control tests can condition all the R&D and marketing of the product. Therefore, it is important to plan meaningful projects, and to be open to change and adaptation, so that the product complies with all safety and quality standards.

• Safety

As indicated in point 10 of Annex 1 to REGULATION (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products, it is necessary to include in the safety dossier existing studies on human volunteers or duly verified and justified results of risk assessments that have been carried out in other relevant areas. Despite this express mention, this requirement is assumed as if it were optional and these safety tests are not always carried out, with new products coming onto the market without experience of how they may affect the skin after actual application.

There are quite frequent cases in which, according to the bibliographic assessment, a product could be innocuous, but after application on volunteers, with different types of skin, exposed to different environmental factors, in other words, in real conditions, skin irritation phenomena are observed which, in addition to the adverse effect on the subject, lead to a possible complaint which may result in the worst case scenario in a product recall and the consequent loss of prestige of the brand.

• Efficacy Studies

Another important point to take into account in product development is Efficacy Studies, as they are essential to distinguish different products in the market, and help to stimulate innovation and encourage competition.

From the Marketing Department’s point of view, these tests are the basis to support its strategy; and whenever characteristics or properties are explicitly or implicitly attributed to the product, it is necessary to perform them, as a literature review is not enough, as stated in REGULATION (EU) No 655/2013, establishing common criteria to which claims relating to cosmetic products must conform.

Beyond mere compliance with the legislation, conducting such studies provides valuable information on the product used under normal conditions for months by at least 20 people. The subjective questionnaires provide information on the sensory opinion of these volunteers and their purchase intentions, which provides information on the market, the dermatological control allows to rule out adverse effects after repeated application, and the instrumental part provides objective data on the efficacy of the product, which allows to highlight claims on the labelling by providing numbers, thus highlighting the product among the competition with scientific evidence.

• Conclusion

For a good project execution in terms of planning and costs, it is essential to know all the steps that a safe and effective cosmetic has to go through before it can be marketed. Using the tests carried out as a competitive advantage is also a way of innovating.

Xavier Marcet, consultant in strategy, innovation and organizational transformation, mentions in one of his articles: “Giving results, making money, is a condition for companies to survive, but the legacy always consists of much more than making money”.

The legacy and the prestige of the brand are at stake, which is why it is important not to “tiptoe” through any of these phases and to tackle each one in pursuit of product excellence.

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