As the beauty and personal care industry continues to evolve, there is an increasing need for innovative techniques capable of substantiating the hair care claims of the products. These techniques must comprehensively analyze different hair types and conditions and address a wide spectrum of product benefits. Supporting them scientifically and accurately is a persistent challenge.

In response to this, a cutting-edge technology has emerged. Hair Morphology Tester, based on Filament Surface Tester (FST), a patented technology developed by the University of Pavia (PCT/IB2020/053079; IT201900004861; BR112021019661; EPB3946011; US17599143; Priority 02019000004861,1/4/2019) represents a shift in how hair care products can be evaluated. Etichub srl, academic spin off of the University of Pavia, possesses a proven expertise in the exclusive use and employment of this technology within the testing field.

From a technical standpoint, the Hair Morphology Tester based on FST technology consists of a plurality of sources of electromagnetic radiations adapted to be oriented spatially and to irradiate the hair according to a selected angle of incidence, an image acquisition device adapted to receive a reflected and/or dispersed radiation or a fluorescence radiation emitted, and an image processing unit designed to process images and classify them according to a database. Based on scientific principles, this technology offers reliable and repeatable qualitative and quantitative data with a validated scientific precision.

From a practical perspective, the system delivers a holistic and highly accurate assessment of the hair which relates to the quali-quantitative study of surface characteristics, mechanical properties and, indirectly, structural properties. It provides a cross-analysis of color, shine, degree of dispersion and frizz giving as output numerical scores traceable to the characteristics of the substrate, examples of which include shade classification (SC), anti-yellow index (AYI), hair shine index (HSI), integrity index (II) and hair frizz index (HFI). This means that the technology can simultaneously handle aspects of texture, color and structure, making it perfectly suited to meet the needs of cosmetic testing.

Moreover, one of the most significant advantages of Hair Morphology Tester is its applicative versatility: it can be used to assess hair both “ex vivo” or “in vivo” mode across a wide range of operational contexts with immediate data reading. The analysis is non-invasive, allowing easy examination of hair without damaging it, thus handling all hair types of panelists or strands, different textures and colors and wet or dry conditions, ensuring comprehensive testing of a full range of products. The system’s capability to determine the degree of well-being, indirectly assess the structural integrity of the hair and provide information on combability and resistance to breakage enables its involvement in the development of appropriate experimental testing protocols which can be characterized by different time periods, short/long or mid-term, and methods depending on the type of product and its functionality.

The unique Etichub’s expertise in working with the technology opens up numerous scenarios within the testing field ranging from color preservation/protection/enhancement to hair health/shine and hair strength or damage repair. Anyway, its resourceful and multifaceted use can include opportunities for characterization studies or research project on hair. In fact, Etichub offers a reliable testing service distinguished by the distinct and peculiar application of the technology and a proven know-how about it, encompassing also the skilled identification of optimal analysis protocols and strategies. In fact, Hair Morphology Tester based on Filament Surface Tester proves to be a versatile tool in enhancing the value of a product when conducting the most suitable evaluation practice. Its ability to address several evaluation aspects in an integrated manner can play a pivotal role in the testing field. Etichub is committed to focus on this aspect, elevating the quality of the assessment process and highlighting product’s qualities. Consequently, the presentation of the results of a thorough analysis of cosmetic products can help support marketing propositions as well as allow the final consumer accessing high-quality products.

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CONTACT

Camilla Grignani – Marketing specialist

camilla.grignani@etichub.it

www.etichub.it