Europe

Skin ageing claims and the multiple opportunities of scientific assements on subjects via Euro Cosmetics

Pro-age and the word around senescence

The cosmetics industry is shifting away from anti-ageing claims towards a more positive approach to ageing. Consumers now seek a ‘pro-ageing’ philosophy that prioritizes looking healthy over looking younger. Brands are embracing a new vocabulary centered on renewal, regeneration, and glow to align with this shift. Beauty is evolving to encompass overall well-being, lifestyle, and quality of life, emphasizing tonicity, elegance, and silhouette preservation. The focus is on supporting the ageing process rather than fighting signs of ageing, providing emotional pleasure and sensorial experiences through skincare as ‘pro-longevity’ life enhancers. The holistic point of view of the skin ageing is under way.

The anti-ageing cosmetics market was expected to grow at a rate of 5.7% between 2019 and 2024, reaching US$50.5 billion by 2024. With growing demand due to the increased focus on appearance, and simultaneously combined with the increase in the ageing population, exceeding 1.5 billion people over the age of 65 according to the WHO in 2050, is a key factor in this anticipated growth, significantly influencing the market in the coming years.

The exposome process beyond the Ageing Mechanisms

The factors influencing skin ageing are now widely understood, focusing on two main categories: intrinsic and extrinsic factors. The 20th century delineated these as exposomes -external elements like sun exposure, pollution, diet, and lifestyle- and the biological clock, governed by our genome. For the elderly, typical signs of ageing include skin thinning, dryness, and various skin irregularities, which manifest differently based on phototype, light skin tends to thin, while dark skin thickens. UV rays, particularly UVB and UVA, cause significant dermal damage, largely through oxidative stress induced by environmental conditions.

Pro-age treatments aim to enhance blood circulation, stimulate collagen production, and redefine contours for a firmer appearance. They employ moisturizing ingredients for immediate and long-term effects, bolstering skin elasticity and gently exfoliating dead cells. Some ingredients act as lymphatic drainers, reshaping cheekbones and providing definition.

These changes affect the skin physiology in its several aspects and layers, particularly impacting the epidermis-dermis-hypodermis exchanges within the skin. The increasingly intricate nature of modern lifestyles has shifted how anti-ageing treatments are globally employed. The industry is proactively integrating cutting-edge technologies like genomics, AI, and the Internet of Things to develop, produce, and market these targeted skincare solutions, meeting regulatory demands and aligning with consumer needs.

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