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The Perils of Progress in the Search for New UV Filters via Happi

29 August 2024

This year was no exception as thousands attended and visited 560 exhibitors. It serves as a forum for the exchange of ideas, allows attendees to see and “feel” the new products and innovations by the ever-expanding pool of suppliers and users, and promotes a multitude of new products and ideas in the cosmetics industry.

At this year’s NYSCC Suppliers’ Day, I ran into Carl D’Ruiz, the senior manager of business development at DSM-Firmenich. He has been championing the approval process of perhaps the first new UV filter in the US this century. This is a welcomed development in our industry that has been overshadowed by superior European and Asian sunscreen products. Many of us have been fighting the fight to approve new UV filters, especially high molecular weight broad Spectrum filters to compensate for the dearth of good UV filters in the US. The FDA, in its Proposed Final ruling a few years ago, deemed zinc oxide and titanium dioxide as the only two approved GRASE filters in the US. The rest of the so-called chemical UV absorbers were relegated to category III status; i.e., requiring further safety testing before they are approved for use in the US. Thus, the remaining eight filters, the workhorse ingredients for UV protection in the US, are being evaluated by the FDA for approval.

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