Many players in the cosmetics industry offer product ranges which incorporate hemp (Cannabis sativa L.) and CBD.

The cannabis plant comprises hundreds of different substances, but the two best-known active ingredients in the plant are THC (delta-9-tetrahydrocannabinol) and CBD (cannabidiol).

Cannabis sativa, a botanical species which includes several varieties of hemp, are particularly distinguished by their THC and CBD contents, and are subject to strict control measures:

• Global context – cannabis is included in the Single Convention on Narcotic Drugs of 1961
• European context – the use of narcotic drugs is prohibited in cosmetic products (entry 306 of Annex II to the UE Cosmetics Regulation[1]),
• French context – industrial and commercial uses of certain varieties of Cannabis sativa L. are authorised subject to a number of conditions:
  • Compliance with the list[2] of authorised varieties (25 varieties to date);
  • Use the authorised plant parts: fibres and seeds² (use of flowers is prohibited);
  • Use of plant with THC concentration of less than 0.2%² ;
  • No traces of THC may be contained in the finished cosmetic product[3].

In a strict regulatory context, it is essential to select raw materials which are fully compliant in order to ensure the safety of the product and its efficiency.   To achieve this, Eurofins supports customers at every key stage of the product development process, from:

• Consulting and Regulatory & Toxicology services (toxicological profile of ingredients, regulatory compliance files, MSDS, labelling validation…)
• Analytical tests (heavy metals, pesticides, protein assays, impurities, THC assay…)
• In vitro studies (Skin/eye irritation, Ames test, Micronucleus test…)
• Clinical studies to support cosmetic claims (moisturising, soothing…)

[1] Regulation (CE) n°1223/2009

[2] Amended Order of 22 August 1990 implementing Article R. 5132-86 of the Public Health Code

[3] https://www.drogues.gouv.fr/actualites/cannabidiol-cbd-point-legislation

Read the entire ZOOM#18 : ZOOM#18-Microbiota-Preclinical-testing.web

Contact : cosmetics@eurofins.com

www.eurofins.com/cosmetics/