Since 2015, Skinobs has been a key reference in the beauty testing industry, meticulously analyzing global developments that shape product innovation, regulatory compliance, and scientific communication. The evolution of cosmetic testing is driven by technological advancements, shifting consumer expectations, regulatory frameworks, and environmental considerations. Since the 1990s, cosmetic testing has been central to product development, spanning early-stage R&D, formulation, regulatory compliance, and scientific validation of both active ingredients and finished products. Today, the beauty sector is increasingly aligned with scientific research, fostering collaborations between brands, dermatologists, and multidisciplinary experts.
Preclinical trials and clinical studies ensure evidence-based product validation, reinforcing both safety and efficacy claims while enhancing consumer confidence and brand credibility. Drawing insights from international conferences, CRO visits, and expert discussions, Skinobs identifies emerging trends and innovations, ensuring continuous advancement in testing methodologies. Through this analytical approach, Skinobs contributes to the dissemination of scientific excellence, bridging research and industry to support cutting-edge, reliable cosmetic evaluation.
The Korean Wave (Hallyu) has propelled K-Beauty onto the global stage, redefining cosmetic standards through an intricate fusion of scientific innovation and traditional skincare methodologies. In South Korea, beauty transcends aesthetics, reflecting a holistic philosophy centered on self-care and wellbeing.
Trends such as «glass skin», characterized by a flawless, luminous complexion, and the seven-step skincare regimen exemplify South Korea’s influence on global beauty. Korean cosmetic science integrates cutting-edge technologies, including microencapsulation, microneedling, and fermentation, with heritage skincare ingredients to enhance efficacy and safety.
R&D remains central, with K-Beauty brands collaborating with dermatologists and researchers to substantiate product claims through scientifically validated testing protocols. This rigorous evidence-based approach, reinforced by quantifiable efficacy data, ensures high-quality formulations, fostering consumer trust, satisfaction, and industry leadership. K-Beauty’s scientific rigor and innovation-driven methodology continue to set new global benchmarks in cosmetic science.
The South American beauty and cosmetics industry, particularly in Brazil, is evolving towards natural, sustainable formulations and consumer-driven innovation. Rising concerns over synthetic chemicals have fueled demand for plant-based ingredients and eco-friendly products, while Gen Z increasingly seeks high-performance anti-aging actives. Skincare routines favor multifunctional products, and sun care innovations focus on advanced photoprotection and post-sun repair. The “skinification” trend extends skincare ingredients to haircare, reflecting the sector’s rapid expansion, with Brazil projected to reach $7.70 billion by 2028.
Hydration, thermal protection, and styling remain key concerns, with brands investing heavily in research and testing. Personalized deodorants and gender-neutral formulations are also gaining traction, reinforcing inclusivity. Overall, the market is shifting towards efficacy-driven, culturally attuned, and sustainable solutions. Both local and international brands are heavily investing in R&D, while regional testing laboratories provide extensive in in-vivo and wick testing methodologies. Brazil’s unparalleled diversity of hair types offers international brands a valuable testing ground for evaluating product efficacy on a discerning consumer base.
In recent years, the European market has increasingly prioritized clean beauty and sustainability. The demand for organic, crueltyfree, and ethically sourced ingredients has become a key driver, appealing to environmentally conscious consumers seeking products aligned with their ethical values. This trend extends to wellness-oriented formulations, incorporating aromatherapy, botanical extracts, and holistic practices into daily skincare routines. The European concept of «skinimalism» advocates for a minimalist approach to skincare, emphasizing fewer but highly effective products that enhance the skin’s natural radiance. Cosmetic brands rely extensively on clinical testing, integrating classic and advanced biometrological measurements to visualize and quantify effects on skin and hair with scientific rigor.
Additionally, consumer perception studies remain integral, offering in-depth insights into user acceptance and experience.European testing laboratories provide cutting-edge services, leveraging AI-driven and optical technologies to enhance precision in cosmetic evaluation.
American beauty standards emphasize individuality and selfexpression, fostering a dynamic industry that continuously evolves. In the United States, beauty is increasingly linked to self-confidence and personal identity, with a strong shift towards inclusivity and representation, celebrating diverse skin tones, body types, and consumer needs. American skincare practices prioritize efficacy and convenience, favoring multi-functional formulations. Trends such as the “no-makeup makeup” look promote a natural aesthetic, while minimalist skincare routines—typically comprising cleansing, moisturizing, and sun protection—reflect a preference for practicality in fast-paced lifestyles.
American beauty brands excel in digital marketing, leveraging social media platforms like Instagram and TikTok to engage with younger demographics, shaping consumer preferences through highly interactive and trend-driven strategies. The evaluation of cosmetic products is now organized around the new Mocra regulations. Consumer tests supported by beforeand- after photos and consumer testimonials are very much in vogue. Studies are conducted as close as possible to normal conditions of use; with consumers whose beauty routine is perfectly consistent with the products tested. These use tests are supplemented by tolerance tests supervised by dermatologists.
The beauty industry is undergoing a profound transformation, propelled by scientific advancements and evolving consumer expectations. The convergence of clean beauty, longevity-focused skincare, menopausal care, medical aesthetics, personalized treatments, and microbiome research underscores a shift towards evidence-based, high-performance formulations. As cosmetic science continues to integrate cutting-edge technologies and sustainable practices, the industry is poised to offer more effective, safer, and ethically responsible products, aligning with the future of cosmetics innovation.
1. Longevity and long-term skin health
The increasing focus on environmental factors, including pollution and the exposome, is driving the development of new skincare evaluation protocols. The demand for specific claims such as antioxidant efficacy is now expanding towards more advanced biomarker-based studies. This paradigm shift underscores a transition from purely aesthetic skincare to a more comprehensive approach that prioritizes long-term skin health. In 2024, emerging claims such as «regenerating,» «firming,» and «repairing» have gained prominence, following the enduring demand for «anti-aging» products. This evolution parallels the rise of clinical testing methodologies that embrace the «well-aging» concept—an approach centered on maintaining skin health, natural beauty, and overall well-being, rather than merely combating signs of aging. Consumers increasingly favor products that offer sustainable, long-term benefits, reflecting a more balanced and scientifically grounded perspective on aging.
2. Clean beauty and environmental responsibility
The growing prominence of «clean beauty» underscores the necessity of product analysis to ensure formulations do not leave persistent environmental residues. The quantification of microplastics and per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAs), commonly found in water- and sweat-resistant products, has become a critical aspect of safety assessments. In parallel, testing laboratories are developing methodologies to evaluate the toxicity of sunscreen formulations on marine ecosystems. These assessments result in an eco-responsibility score, guiding formulation improvements and substantiating eco-conscious claims. This trend highlights a shift towards transparency and sustainability in product development, ensuring compliance with evolving regulatory and consumer expectations.
3. Innovations in postmenopausal skincare
The development of skincare formulations tailored specifically for menopausal women reflects an increased awareness of their unique dermatological and physiological needs. This transition signifies a broader societal transformation, wherein menopause is no longer a taboo but an integral factor in brand development strategies. The decline in estrogen levels induces significant skin changes, including reduced density and elasticity, increased dryness, slower cellular renewal, and diminished collagen and hyaluronic acid production. In response, the cosmetic industry is formulating targeted products designed to enhance hydration, mitigate inflammation, and counteract oxidative stress to reinforce the skin barrier. Furthermore, menopausal skincare is adopting a holistic approach that integrates topical treatments with nutraceuticals to promote overall well-being. This convergence of external and internal care highlights a commitment to scientifically driven, comprehensive solutions that address both the aesthetic and functional aspects of aging skin.
4. Medicalization of skincare
Consumers increasingly demand skincare solutions with clinically validated efficacy, driving the intersection between cosmetics and medical aesthetics. The expansion of non-invasive medical aesthetic treatments -including botulinum toxin injections, dermal fillers, laser therapies, radiofrequency, and high-intensity focused ultrasound- is directly shaping cosmetic innovation. This influence is evident in the proliferation of pre-procedural skin preparation protocols and post-procedure recovery treatments that incorporate advanced regenerative, soothing, and reparative formulations. With a heightened emphasis on scientific substantiation, dermocosmetics products now undergo rigorous in-vitro, ex-vivo, and clinical evaluations to ensure both efficacy and tolerance. This transformation compels the cosmetic industry to adopt pharmaceutical-grade standards while enhancing transparency in the communication of scientifically proven results.
5. Personalization and advanced diagnostics
The advent of artificial intelligence (AI) and cutting-edge skin diagnostic technologies—such as 3D imaging, spectroscopy, and biometric analysis—has enabled highly personalized skincare solutions. Dermatology-inspired product lines are leveraging microbiome profiling, genetic screening, and DNA-based diagnostics to develop bespoke treatment protocols. This precision-driven approach allows consumers to receive tailored formulations that address their unique skin conditions, optimizing therapeutic outcomes and reinforcing consumer trust in science-backed beauty solutions.
6. The expanding field of microbiome research
Scientific interest in the microbiome has surged, underscoring its crucial role in skin health. The term «microbiota» refers to the diverse community of microorganisms—bacteria, viruses, fungi, and protozoa—residing in specific environments such as the human skin. The «microbiome,» however, extends beyond the microbiota, encompassing not only these microorganisms but also their genetic material and biochemical interactions with the host. This broader perspective highlights the microbiome’s functional role in maintaining skin homeostasis, modulating immune responses, and influencing dermatological conditions. Advances in microbiome research are driving the development of skincare products designed to support a balanced skin microbiome, integrating prebiotics, probiotics, and postbiotics to enhance cutaneous resilience.
These innovations in the field of testing for cosmetics contribute to greater scientific credibility, ensuring that cosmetic claims are supported by objective, quantifiable physiological evidence. As biomarker-based evaluation continues to evolve, it is shaping a new era of precision skincare, where formulations are not only tailored to consumer needs but also scientifically validated for enhanced efficacy and safety. The ideal scenario arises when the societal and cultural imperatives of a market intersect with scientific and technological advancements, enabling significant progress that benefits consumers, society, and industry stakeholders alike. This dynamic has defined the cosmetics industry since its inception, making it both an inspiring and enthusiastic field of innovation.
1. The skin-brain approach: a scientific and sensory revolution
Today, the skin is recognized as a neurosensory interface, incorporating scientifically validated strategies to optimize both well-being and cosmetic efficacy. The bidirectional connection between the cutaneous nervous system and the brain highlights the influence of sensory stimuli on the skin’s biological and emotional responses. Neurocosmetics specifically target cutaneous receptors involved in sensory perception by modulating key neurochemical mediators such as dopamine, oxytocin, and endorphins. This regulation contributes to emotional well-being by reducing oxidative stress and inflammation induced by environmental and psychological factors. This approach is now fully integrated into cosmetic formulation and evaluation, leveraging advancements in neuroscience, biotechnology, and artificial intelligence. The efficacy of neurocosmetics is assessed through a combination of physiological (heart rate, skin conductance, EEG), psychological (implicit perception, questionnaires, emotional response), and behavioral (facial and gestural expression) measurements. These multi-criteria analyses enable a comprehensive evaluation of a product’s impact on both perception and subjective experience.
2. Holistic, emotions and neurosensory studies
We are seeing an increase in the importance of the “well-being” claim. This confirms a growing shift towards a more holistic approach to skincare, which focuses on overall wellbeing rather than simply combating the visible signs of skin. The demand for beauty routines that act holistically is helping to develop new tests based on neuroscientific approaches. A very strong trend towards measuring emotions using neurosensory analysis is now on every lips.
3. Biomarkers and omics analysis
In 2025, advancements in skin biomarker analysis through advanced skin sampling are revolutionizing cosmetic science, enabling a deeper understanding of cutaneous physiology and product efficacy at the molecular level. Cutting-edge multi-omics studies allow for comprehensive profiling of skin conditions facilitating their identification of molecular signatures. The innovations in omics technologies (genomics, transcriptomics, proteomics, and metabolomics) and in non-invasive optical techniques such as LC-OCT, Raman spectroscopy, electron or confocal microscopy are driving the evaluation of the performance of highly targeted skincare with unparalleled precision.
4. Advancements in at-home skin diagnostic tools
These intelligent devices leverage cutting-edge advancements in artificial intelligence (AI), optical imaging, spectroscopy, and biosensors, ensuring an increasingly accurate and reliable assessment of skin parameters. By 2025, the rise of at-home skin diagnostic technologies is transforming clinical testing by enabling real-time, highly precise analyses on a significantly larger subject pool compared to traditional biometrological studies conducted in laboratories. Devices such as smart mirrors, smartphone-compatible probes, and portable dermoscopes provide instant diagnostics, while integrated applications offer personalized recommendations.
5. AI and sensor-based technologies
High-resolution 3D scanners, multispectral imaging, and polarized light spectroscopy enable the quantification and visualization of key physiological parameters such as hydration, pigmentation, wrinkle depth, sebum levels, and scalp health. Additionally, smart patches and microfluidic sensors assess barrier integrity by detecting physiological variations before and after product application. Machine learning algorithms, utilizing vast data sets, enhance automation and the scalability of analyses, significantly expanding the scope and accuracy of evaluations.
6. New ISO and better ethics for SPF determination
The assessment of Sun Protection Factor (SPF) has progressed significantly with the introduction of alternative methods to in vivo testing, ensuring enhanced safety, efficacy, and regulatory compliance. Until December 2024, SPF evaluation relied on in vivo erythema-based trials, raising ethical and methodological concerns. In response, ISO standardized two methodologies: the Double Plate Method (DPM – ISO 2375) and Hybrid Diffuse Reflectance Spectroscopy (HDRS – ISO 23698). The DPM offers a fully in vitro approach, utilizing robotic application and treated polymer double plates to replicate UV filter absorption, ensuring reproducible and standardized results. Meanwhile, HDRS integrates in vivo and in vitro assessments through diffuse reflectance spectroscopy (DRS), quantifying UVA absorbance (320-400 nm) on human skin with and without sunscreen application. By mathematically hybridizing in vitro UVB absorbance with in vivo UVA data, HDRS provides a comprehensive, standardized UV protection profile.
7. The booming of in-vitro assays
In response to evolving beauty market trends, preclinical assay solutions have advanced to include a wide range of tests such as in-silico, in-tubo, in-vitro, and ex-vivo. These tests evaluate various aspects like safety, stability, ecotoxicity, biodegradability, microbiology, content-container interactions, UV protection, and overall efficacy. For efficacy assessment, this progress is driven by a deeper understanding of skin biology and the discovery of biomarkers, alongside innovations in assay optic and dosage methodologies and IA applications. These platforms now allow for testing not only on cells but also on 3D skin models and organ-on-chip systems, incorporating microfluidic technology to replicate live skin with added complexity, including melanocytes, neurons, capillaries, sebaceous glands, and hair. This technological evolution allows for a more accurate representation of skin reactions, which not only improves the accuracy of the tests, but also their variety, as these improved models provide more complete and reliable data.
8. In-silico analysis: a predictive paradigm
In-silico testing revolutionizes cosmetic science by using artificial intelligence (AI) and molecular modeling to predict ingredient safety, efficacy, and formulation stability. These methods assess toxicological risks (irritancy, sensitization) and simulate biomolecular interactions, including microbiome effects. For efficacy, in-silico models quantify biological pathways involved in aging, inflammation, oxidation, and hydration, predicting effects on key biomarkers like collagen and hyaluronic acid. Supported by regulatory agencies (REACH, SCCS) and the OECD, these methods integrate omics data (genomics, proteomics, metabolomics) and advanced neural networks, enhancing product safety, preclinical screening, and regulatory compliance.
Main references
Scientific events: IFSCC Congress Barcelona 2023 – Brazil 2024, 2024 SFC Scientific meetings – Cosmetotest
Beauty shows and meetings: in-cosmetics Global, Korea, Asia, Latina, HPCI India
Technical seminars: Mintel, Euromonitor
Exchanges with testing experts, consultants and Skinobs’ partners around the year
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