UV filters are chemical compounds used in variety of sunscreen products, as creams, lotions ; but also in some anti-aging or day care products. These active compounds are used to prevent or minimise the harmful effects of UV radiation on the skin.

However, it has been demonstrated that some skin reactions due to photoallergic contact are caused by using many commonly organic sunscreens as 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, Drometrizole trisiloxane, benzophenone-3, or ethylhexyl dimethyl (PABA) [1] [2].

In this context, the maximum content of UV filtrer in products has been limited. A list approved UV filters and their allowed maximum concentrations in cosmetics products has been established by the European Commission in Annex VI of the cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009 [3].

Different instrumental techniques have been used to analyze the UV filters: NMR spectroscopy, Raman spectroscopy [4], gas chromatography/mass spectrometry (GS/MS) [5], high-performance liquid chromatography/UV detector (HPLC/UV-Vis) [6], [7], [8].

EXPERTOX has been set up and validated a method for separation and quantification of 16 UV filters, by liquid chromatography (LC/UV-Vis).

Moreover, UV filters can lead to a partial or complete loss of their effectiveness or even to a possible transformation into a hazard substance. These reactions can lead to a decrease in concentrations of UV filters and the formation of sometimes undesirable by-products.

EXPERTOX laboratory works on R&D projects for new protocols to anticipate physical and chemical degradation of raw materials based on photodegradation and new criteria (chemical and toxicological) to help industrials and to ensure the safety of their products [9-10].

Read the complete article: FOCUS#2 Solar Testing – Skinobs

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Refrences

[1] F.P Gasparro, M Mitchnick, J.F Nash,Photochem. (1998, Septembre). Photochemistry and Photobiology. pp. 243-256.

[2] Sydney H. Dromgoole, PhDa; Howard I. Maibach, MDb. (1990, Juin). Sunscreening agent intolerance: Contact and photocontact sensitization and contact urticaria. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology.

[3] Commision Européenne. (s.d.). Reglement Cosmetique n°/2009, relatif au produit cosmétique

ANNEXE III.

[4] Jingcai Cheng , Ying-Sing Li, Richard L. Roberts, George Walker. (1997). Analysis of 2-ethylhexyl-p- methoxycinnamate in sunscreen products by HPLC and Raman spectroscopy. Talanta 44.

[5] Tonya Felix, Brad J. Hall, Jennifer S. Brodbelt. (1998). Determination of benzophenone-3 and metabolites in water and human urine by solid-phase microextraction and quadrupole ion trap GC±MS. Analytica Chimica Acta.

[6] KAZUO IKEDA. SIJKEJI SUZUKI and YOHYA WATANABE . (1990). Determination of sunscreen agents in cosmetic products by reversed- phase chromatography. Journal of Chromnroraphy.

[7] S.C. Rastogi , G.H. Jensen. (1998). Identification of UV filters in sunscreen products by hight performance chromatography -diode-array detection. Journal of Chromatography A.

[8] Veronique Vanquerp, Corinne Rodriguez, Celine Coiffard, Laurence J.M. Coiffard . (1999). Journal of Chromatography A. High-performance liquid chromatographic method for the comparison of the photostability of five sunscreen agents.

[9]S. De Vaugelade, E. Nicol, S. Vujovic, S. Bourcier, S. Pirnay, S. Bouchonnet. UV-vis degradation of α-tocopherol in a model system and in a cosmetic emulsion-Structural elucidation of photoproducts and toxicological consequences. Journal of Chromatography A 2017, 1517, 126-133.

[10] S. De Vaugelade, E. Nicol, S. Vujovic, S. Bourcier, S. Pirnay, S. Bouchonnet. UV-visible phototransformation of dehydroacetic acid – Structural characterization of photoproducts and global ecotoxicity. Rapid Communications in Mass Spectrometry 2018.