Skinobs – Anne Charpentier -www.skinobs.com

Pages76-77

The skin plays multiple roles of protection, perception, immunity, regulation or blood and lymphatic reservoir for the whole body. Thanks to several mechanical, chemical or biological (sebum, biofilm …) reactions, the skin ensures its integrity according to the various endogenous or exogenous environmental variations. Today, the increase in the fragile phenomena of skins is a major issue in the development of the dermo-cosmetics.

The concept of sensitive skin has been a topic of news for more than 30 years for the formulators of the cosmetic industry. Skin irritation, sometimes confused with allergic skin, results in redness, flaking, vesicles.  Sensitive skin is often associated with a consumer’s feelings.  Since the years 90 there has been an evolution in the understanding of this skin mechanism in Europe that has led to the development of products specifically oriented towards this type of skin. The contribution of academic research in the fields of cutaneous innervation, intercellular communication, proteomics or genomics has made it possible to better understand this skin and to develop products that are always more adapted and targeted. Three mechanisms have been identified as potentially involved in the physiology of sensitive skins. This is:

• the disruption of the barrier function,
• the specific nervous system,
• the involvement of immune cells.

In fact, the loss of the skin barrier function causes a decrease in the protection of the cutaneous nerve fibers and exposes them to the external environment. The density of nerve fibers present in the skin can also play a role. Finally, neuronal hyperactivity is explained by the presence of receptors that no longer protect, but induce sensations of pain, warmth and itching in the skins Sensitive

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