CERCO has been studying cutaneous relief for more than 40 years; wrinkles are the first visible sign of aging and concern women and men very early on. Studying their evolution over time but especially their decrease under the effect of a cosmetic treatment remains a priority. The methodologies are multiple but must be carefully chosen according to the context. There are many to study the finest furrows to the deepest.

The choice of technique is major in the evaluation of anti-wrinkle effects: 2D photography combined with image analysis or clinical scoring, 3D profilometry with or without contact have each of the particularities to consider; more the wrinkles are small, more the methodology should be sensitive.

The measurement kinetics, the targeted facial area are also elements to be taken into account to define the most appropriate methodology.
In young adults between the ages of 20 and 30, the concern is to prevent wrinkles. For this, moisturizing and nourishing the skin and protecting it from the sun are the 3 most important factors. At this age, it is a question of studying the cutaneous micro-relief otherwise known as micro-depressive network. The skin is covered by these micro-lines that on areas of permanent fold related to facial expressions, such as the crow’s feet, the contour of the lips, the forehead, will be deepened over the years, to become fine lines and then wrinkles.

This micro-relief, hardly visible to the naked eye can only be studied with very resolving technologies such as the projection of fringes associated with the skin replica. We can thus study the smoothing effects on less marked relief.
When fine lines become visible with the naked eye, other measurement methods can be used such as high-resolution photography combined with image analysis or clinical scoring, based on wrinkles severity scales and trained experimenters.
We thus move from studying an small area by an replica to the measurement of a whole face and the study of all the lines included. These measurements are currently based on a motionless and inexpressive face.

The next step is the assessment of the variations of the folds in «dynamic» mode, that is to say during the facial movements. The study of the anti-wrinkle effects on a face in motion will be more representative as close as possible to the image showing when we express ourselves. The difficulty lies in achieving the same movement before and after application of a cosmetic treatment. But this will be a major breakthrough in the impact of a cosmetic or surgical anti-wrinkle effect. Limit the digging of folds during our expressions without making disappear the facial expressions and emotions.

CONTACT

CERCO

www.cercotests.com

Centre d’Etudes et de Recherche en Cosmétologie,

5 rue St Georges,

75009 PARIS