The Cosmetics Testing News

Follow the testing news dedicated to innovations and trends in the evaluation of active, ingredients, cosmetics and medical devices


4 January 2018

Please find enclosed our 6th Newsletter: ZOOM#6, special edition for COSMETAGORA 9-10 January in Paris. Please to meet you booth 44.

2018 began with all the R&I expectations sourced in the latest technologies: personalized cosmetics, devices, imaging, e-diagnostics, I.A, IoT, big data… How will these new concepts influence the way to support claims?

After COSMETAGORA (booth 44) in Paris and COSME’TECH in Tokyo, we will continue to follow the progress of cosmetics testing field to share with you its most up-to-date and finest overall view. In this newsletter, we will inform you about the Hair Care and the “soothing effect” assessments. Then we will give you the latest news of our partners’ instrumentation and testing labs: Bio-EC, Cerco, Cosmepar, Dermscan, Eotech, Eurofins, Intertek.

Upload the complete Newsletter: ZOOM#6-SKINOBS-VDEF.WEB

We will have a focus of the last news of our partners : BIO-EC, CERCO, COSMEPAR GROUP, DERMSCAN GROUP, EUROFINS,INTERTEK

  • Sensitive skin: Evaluation of soothing effects by the Cerco,
  • Soothing effect of after-sun products: the Dermscan approach,
  • How Intertek can objectivate the hair care products?
  • Eurofins: Investments for Excellence in clinical testing,
  • New clinical evaluation approaches for blue light and complexion by BIO-EC,
  • Cosmepar Group celebrates its 40th anniversary

And two new topics

  • Word of expert [p2] by Laurence Casey et Isabelle Chauvière.
  • Trends update [p4] by Marie-Alice Dibon.

And the last statistics of the platform audience

Small extract of Hair care evaluation

Hair and beauty is a wide field of investigation for both devices manufacturers and testing laboratories.

The Hair care global market is recording an annual growth of 3% and will exceed the $ 91 billion said Premium Beauty News last year. Shampoos, conditioners, colorations, permanents, styling gels, offer various ways to follow the hairstyle trends. The ingenuity of the cosmeticians makes so many organoleptic designs possible with a multitude of benefits whatever is the type and ethnicity of hair: Care, Volume, Anti-Frizz, Smoothing, Flat Hair, Repair, Gloss, Shine, Colour, Fine Hair, Curly Hair, Restore, Anti-Sebum, Anti-Dandruff, UV Protection, Anti-Breakage, Moisturising…
The list of the biometrological protocols dedicated to fibres and head testing is vast focusing different targets: the scalp, the cuticle, the cortex, the hair structure and mecanisms or the growth…

  • Fibre physical aspects and swelling Analysis: hair cross-section by dimensional Analysis.
  • Mechanical analysis for suppleness, flexibility, break resistance, smoothness: with tensile, Stress Relaxation, Fibre Bending, Torsional Analysis, Combing Analysis (Wet or Dry), Friction, Curl Compression,
    Three Point Bend.
  • Global hairstyling Anti-Frizz, Volume, Curls, Bending Force, Remain Hold, Flexible Hold, Combability, Shine:
    Image Analysis.
  • Hair structure and permeability: infra-red microscopie, confocal microscopy…
  • Color and shine: permeation, Color Fade, bleaching test.
  • Specific claims: Anti-sebum, Anti-Dandruff by gravimetry, Hair Loss by trichogramm.

The major issue of this beauty category is to answer the needs to combat both intrinsic and external damages (mechanical, thermal or chemical treatments) and protect from the environmental conditions.

To substantiate all claims there are many protocols analysing at both microscopic and global scales. No need to split hairs anymore!


Happy New Year !
Anne Charpentier



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