Innovations and Science: New efficacy tests for new products via Premium Beauty News
19 April 2016
Smart beauty, customization, new types of claims: marketing developments in cosmetics and dermoscosmetology require ranges of tests that suit increasingly complex fields of action. The European Centre of Dermocosmetology (CED) and Premium Beauty News have brought together several experts to review these issues as part of a round table organized at the 2016 in-cosmetics show in Paris.
Smart beauty and new claims
The beauty world is moving to a new era.
“Products are becoming increasingly smarter. They seek to meet in real time the needs of consumers, like the Romy concept, dedicated to the creation of made-to-measure and highly customized cosmetics. They can be self-adaptive, like the suncare products in the Expert Sun range developed by Shiseido with a sunscreen protection which is enhanced when it comes into contact with water or sweat, thanks to the Wet Sun technology. Some are the result of collective intelligence, like the Clinique Smart Custom Serum,”
“All these developments encourage us to adopt new approaches to support never seen before claims,”
explains Anne Sirvent from the Laboratoire Dermscan, who recently developed a deposition protocol of pollution and dust particles on the skin. Ctibiotech has developed a bio 3D printed skin tissue for the in vitro evaluation of cell responses in contact with substances selected according to product claims.
“Smart Beauty starts with us and the in vitro assessment of raw materials on 3D tissues,”
details Nico Forraz CEO of Ctibiotech.
Perlecan and extracellular matrix
Specialised in skin ageing, Patricia Rousselle, Research Director at the CNRS, uses the latest innovations in efficacy testing to evaluate the efficiency of new molecules on processes she identified.
“Our research on perlecan, a proteoglycan with a heparan sulfate function has showed its benefits in the renewal of the epidermal basal layer and its contribution in restoring the skin’s regenerative capacity.”
Because after all, the purpose of smart beauty has remained the same as its predecessors: the preservation of a youthful skin.