Anti Oxidant Power (AOP) offers an innovative approach for evaluating the in vitro efficacy of cellular antioxidant activity of natural extracts, ingredients, or finished products, for different cosmetic applications.
Using a patented technology, reactive oxygen species (ROS) are generated in controlled quantities inside the cell, which can be scavenged by the test product. Dose-response studies carried out on different cell models allow the determination of effective concentrations (EC50, EC10, EC90) of the antioxidant activity of various pure compounds / crude extracts / fractions, as well as their comparison with standard antioxidants.
The combination of AOP functional tests, addressing several antioxidant mechanisms (direct by scavenging free radicals, or indirect by activation of the transcriptional pathway ARE-Nrf2) also makes it possible to investigate the cellular mode of action and to establish a complete antioxidant profile of the products evaluated.
AOP tests are applicable to various cell models:
1) Keratinocytes (HaCaT or primary cells) or other cellular models such as skin fibroblasts, allow the evaluation of the efficacy of the antioxidant activity of skin care products, claiming for example antioxidant activity, anti-radical activity, anti-aging, anti-pollution, anti-blue light or skin photo-protection activities.
Fig.1. SKIN AOP1 test principle performed on HaCaT keratinocytes and dose-response curves, efficacy concentration at 50% (EC50) and coefficient of determination (R2) for quercetin, epigallocatechin gallate and resveratrol.
2) Primary cells from the dermal papilla of the hair follicle (HFDPCs), located at the base of the hair follicle. HFDPCs are involved in modulating the development and growth of the follicle (whereas the hair shaft produced consists only of keratin). The cells of the dermal papilla, subjected to oxidative stress caused by cellular metabolism or by the environment (solar radiation, urban pollution …), lead to various alterations in the growth cycle of the follicle, which can lead to hair loss. HFDPCs make possible an in vitro evaluation of the antioxidant, anti-radical, anti-aging, anti-pollution properties of new hair treatments or hair care products.
Fig.2. HAIR AOP1 test performed on Hair Follicle Dermal Papilla Cells and dose-response curves, 50% efficacy concentration (EC50) and coefficient of determination (R2) for resveratrol.
In short:
– “SKIN” cell tests (keratinocytes or fibroblasts)
– ” HAIR” cell tests (HFDPCs):
More information on the AOP1 test published in: Antioxidants https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox9060471
Fig.3. Anti Oxidant Power (AOP) EFFICACY LIVE CELL ASSAYS – CATALOGUE – 2022
* AOP patented technology
** Hair Follicle Dermal Papilla Cells
*publirédactionnel
Cécile Dufour
PhD
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