Chronological & biological age of individuals can differ remarkably. Since our skin is subjected to a combination of intrinsic and extrinsic insults this difference could even be further enhanced. The design of rational dermo–cosmetic interventions targeting the root causes of aging may help slow down decline of skin structure & function thereby keeping our skin in the best possible state for its chronological age, a term commonly referred to as “healthy skin”.

To achieve this purpose, identification of reliable biomarkers of skin longevity is needed. Increased oxidative stress and inflammaging appears to be pivotal drivers of accelerated skin aging. Both indissociable processes are transversal to different “unhealthy” skin phenotypes: such as atopic skin, sensible skin, oily skin and photo–aged skin. Extrinsic factors such as urban pollution, microbiote dysbiosis, as well as internal factors such as neurogenic inflammation or mood disorders have negative effects on skin wellness disrupting innate functions of epidermal barrier and delaying its repair and renewal, also making it more susceptible to external aggressions.

Thus, it is essential to be able to track the rate of aging and develop a comprehensive set of skin aging biomarkers. To this purpose we set–up a novel targeted proteomics approach for the assessment, quantification and identification of oxidatively damaged (carbonylated) proteins at the proteome level using direct in situ labeling coupled to mass spectrometry approaches. Distinct signatures of biomarkers (i.e. specific proteins) have been observed upon skin exposition (in vitro and ex vivo) to different types of stress.

In addition, in vivo studies underscored the benefits to be gained from increased protection or the stimulation of carbonylated proteins elimination by the amelioration of parameters related to skin appearance. The use of precise, actionable and specific aging biomarkers is essential to support transition to rational cosmetics approaches and more generally to P4 Cosmetics (predictive, preventative, personalized, participatory), and finally to precision cosmetics.

CONTACT

martin.baraibar@oxiproteomics.fr

www.oxiproteomics.fr

sales@oxiproteomics.fr