The rise of Clean Beauty: a sustainable revolution in cosmetics by Mérieux Nutrisciences

The global beauty industry is undergoing a transformative shift as consumers increasingly prioritize transparency, sustainability, and ethical practices. Clean beauty, a term encompassing natural, non-toxic, and eco-conscious cosmetic products, reflects a growing end users’ desire to minimize their environmental footprint. Clean beauty is not merely about avoiding harmful or non-sustainable ingredients; it is rooted in holistic well-being. Brands adopting clean beauty principles emphasize the use of ethically sourced, biodegradable, and sustainable ingredients. Furthermore, packaging innovations such as refillable containers and the use of recycled materials have reinforced the alignment of clean beauty with broader sustainability goals.

The trend resonates particularly with younger generations, such as Millennials and Gen Z, who are more likely to scrutinize ingredient lists and demand accountability from manufacturers. Europe has emerged as a leader in the clean beauty market, driven by robust regulatory frameworks, informed consumers, and a rich heritage of botanical-based products. The European Union’s stringent regulations on cosmetic ingredients, outlined in Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, have created an environment conducive to clean beauty innovation. The European market for clean beauty is expected to grow significantly, with countries like France, Germany, and the Nordic nations at the forefront. However, challenges remain. The lack of a universally accepted definition of clean beauty has led to inconsistencies and potential greenwashing.

Best practice to test ingredients, products & packaging from the CosmeticLAB of Mérieux NutriSciences

Mérieux NutriSciences offers a comprehensive suite of services aimed at promoting sustainability within the cosmetics industry, and encompassing the entire product lifecycle, from formulation to packaging, ensuring that beauty products are both effective and environmentally responsible.

Chemical Screening. Transparency and traceability in ingredient supply chains

Determination of prohibited and restricted substances according to the European Regulation 1223/2009:

• Allergens determination in raw materials and cosmetic products
• PFAS analysis on cosmetic products and ingredients
• Prohibited substances as listed in Annex II
• Restricted substances as listed in Annex III
• Preservatives as parabens
• UV filters as e oxybenzone, octinoxate or octyl methoxycinnamate

Green Formulations: create a formula as sustainable as possible.

• Green product formulation according to OECD 301
  • Determine formulation biodegradability
  • Determine product biodegradability
• Ingredients free from petrochemicals according to ASTM D6866 and ISO 16620-2
• Microplastic detection and identification: thanks to the our long-standing experience, it has been possible to develop and validate specific methods applicable to diverse matrix types including detergents and cosmetics

Sustainable Packaging: recognize the environmental impact of packaging

MxNS experts provides services to evaluate and enhance the sustainability of cosmetic packaging.

• Bio-based packaging: assessing packaging materials made from renewable natural resources to determine their biobased content.
• Biodegradable and compostable packaging: certifying packaging according to standards like UNI EN 13432, ensuring it can decompose without harming the environment.
• Recyclable and reusable packaging: evaluating the recyclability and reusability of packaging materials to minimize waste and promote circular economy principles.

End users safety: tolerability of clean beauty products

• Dermatologically tested – skin compatibility. All skin compatibility tests confirm the absence of irritation after applying a cosmetic product and they are performed by a dermatologist on a panel of healthy volunteers with normal or sensitive skin:
  • Patch Test: occlusive patch test – 24 hours and 48 hours, semi-occlusive patch test
  • Test with the supervision of a dermatologist
  • Non-comedogenic test evaluates the skin condition before and after one month of product usage.
• Ophthalmologically tested – ocular tolerance. The ophthalmological test evaluates the eye compatibility of cosmetic products to be in contact with the periocular area.

Transparent Communication: the Importance of Clear Communication

Mérieux NutriSciences is ready to support your product’s environmental declaration. Claims and environmental labels are essential for communicating a product’s performance and environmental attributes. When grounded in scientific studies and aligned with regulations, they provide reliable information and help prevent greenwashing. Conversely, without scientific backing, they risk misleading consumers and damaging the brand’s reputation. Environmental labels objectively describe a product’s environmental impact and may include waste collection details. In some European countries, such labels are mandatory but subject to varying regulations. Green claims, based on ISO 14040 and ISO 14020 standards, are optional and highlight environmental aspects of products or processes. These claims can be self-declared, like “recyclable” or “compostable,” or certified by third parties.

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CONTACT

Chiara Chiaratti
Cosmetics & Personal Care Project Manager
chiara.chiaratti@mxns.com
Mérieux NutriSciences