Skin Pigmentation Claims: In-vitro and In-vivo Tests by Bio Basic Europe
13 June 2023
Complexion pigmentation is one of the most important elements in a person’s appearance and there is often the desire to increase, decrease or even it out.
Bio Basic Europe can provide a valuable support to substantiate the specific claims of pigmenting and depigmenting treatments by designing customisable experimental studies.
They believe that the best approach is a combination of in vitro and in vivo tests. The former are useful for screening and understanding the mechanism of action of the products, the latter to clearly demonstrate the result on an appropriately selected panel of subjects.
Skin discolouration is a common condition that refers to any change in the natural skin tone. Hyperpigmentation (or dark spots) is the darkening of an area of the skin caused by an excess of melanin, while hypopigmentation is the lightening of an area of the skin caused by a lack of melanin.
Skin “whitening” and lightening is a widespread desire in Asian societies.
On the contrary, tanned skin is a standard of beauty in Western society. Products that accelerate, intensify, and prolong the tan are very popular.
Bio Basic Europe offers different strategies to assess the efficacy of a cosmetic product in reducing the visibility of skin discolouration, in evening out the complexion and to demonstrate the efficacy of “whitening” or “pigmenting” skin care treatments, both in vitro and in vivo.
In vitro the attention is focused on the biological mechanism underlying skin pigmentation and the synthesis of melanin by cell cultures of melanocytes and by human reconstructed tissue is then evaluated.
In the chosen biological substrate, treated with product under study, the modulation of pigmentation is verified by quantifying the synthesized melanin by spectrophotometric analysis and, at visual/morphological level, by observation and acquisition of photos at bright field microscope.
An in-vivo clinical study can confirm the effect of a product by observing the variation of specific end-points in the trial subjects during the treatment.
In order to assess the effect of a treatment in evening out skin complexion, instrumental analysis of pigmentation, or quantification of melanin in dark spots and assessment of melanin homogeneity of the skin is of paramount relevance. Clinical evaluations of the visibility of skin discolouration and of the skin complexion evenness performed by professionals may be added to strengthen the study.
Focusing on the eye area, high presence of melanin may play a fundamental role in the darkening of skin under eyes. Also in this case the quantification of melanin in association with the clinical assessment of the visibility of dark circles is the most appropriate approach.
Perception of the effect of the product is also important, so the addition of a self-assessment questionnaire is a valuable tool to confirm the results obtained with the instrumental clinical investigations.
To verify the action of “whitening” products. an exhaustive in-vivo clinical experimentation could be based on the verification of the efficacy of the tested product in decreasing skin complexion melanin and in increasing skin lightness (L*) by instrumental analysis and on the assessment of the reduction of pigmentation intensity and of the improvement of skin radiance and brightness by monitoring the subjects involved in the trial.
On the contrary, to evaluate the efficacy of “pigmenting” products, the focus of an in vitro or an in vivo clinical trial is to assess the increase of skin pigmentation of the treated skin.
Again, self-assessment could be useful in these typology of studies to get the customer’s opinion about the action product and to have an evidence to support common and curious claims.
*publirédactionnel
Contact
Roberta Villa
Vivo Test Project Manager
https://www.biobasiceurope.it/
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