New multidimensional approach of nail product efficacy evaluation by Coty via Cosmetics Design USA

6 January 2016

By Deanna Utroske, 17-Dec-2015

At this year’s annual SCC meeting in New York City, Yelena Loginova of Coty presented a multidimensional approach to evaluating nail product efficacy that could help formulators back resulting product claims with quantitative data.
Yelena Loginova and her team at Coty set out to

“develop a holistic approach to experimental design and testing practices that include consumer perception, expert examination, and image analysis.”

The latter aspect is meant to stand as a controlled, replicable means of explaining product efficacy and understanding cosmetologists’ evaluations as well as consumer experience.

Starting from scratch

“A thorough understanding of the biology, physiology, and growth pattern of the nails is essential for an impactful nail product development,” the researchers explain in the preprint abstract published by the SCC. That understanding, which includes biological and environmental factors of nail growth and health, helps guide researchers’ selection of test participants so as to yield legible results. With this in mind, Loginova’s team established some basic testing parameters.
Participants’ nails should be neither too long nor too short; product should be tested on the thumb and middle finger of each hand, since nail growth varies by finger and hand; those fingernails should each have distinct lunula, as this is (when notched with a cosmetologist’s diamond scribe) a consistent baseline for growth measurement.

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