Today, most consumers are more in the mood for a well ageing, slow ageing or pro ageing approach… A new vocabulary of renewal, regeneration, and longetivity now dominates the language of the anti-ageing claims. Beauty is becoming more integrative, it will globalize well-being, the silhouette, the sleep quality, or the lifestyle… resulting in a different look expecting new codes and expressions. In this quest for mindful beauty radiance, what women expect from skin care is emotional pleasure, sensoriality. It is all about supporting the ageing process rather than fighting the signs of ageing.

THE EXPOSOME AND AGEING MECHANISMS

The factors influencing skin ageing are now widely understood, focusing on two main categories: intrinsic and extrinsic factors. The 20th century delineated these as exposomes -external elements like sun exposure, pollution, diet, and lifestyle- and the biological clock, governed by our genome. For the elderly, typical signs of ageing include skin thinning, dryness, and various skin irregularities, which manifest differently based on phototype, light skin tends to thin, while dark skin thickens. UV rays, particularly UVB and UVA, cause significant dermal damage, largely through oxidative stress induced by environmental conditions.

Pro-age treatments aim to enhance blood circulation, stimulate collagen production, and redefine contours for a firmer appearance. They employ moisturizing ingredients for immediate and long-term effects, bolstering skin elasticity and gently exfoliating dead cells. Some ingredients act as lymphatic drainers, reshaping cheekbones and providing definition.

These changes affect the skin physiology in its several aspects and layers, particularly impacting the epidermis-dermis-hypodermis exchanges within the skin. The increasingly intricate nature of modern lifestyles has shifted how anti-ageing treatments are globally employed. The industry is proactively integrating cutting-edge technologies like genomics, AI, and the Internet of Things to develop, produce, and market these targeted skincare solutions, meeting regulatory demands and aligning with consumer needs.

THE STUDIES OF SKIN AGE PERCEPTION

Anti-ageing products represent one of the most advanced and specialized segments in cosmetics, offering a broad range of benefits that vary by region. These treatments are designed to target multiple mechanisms, including skin relief, collagen production, cellular communication, and the dermo-epidermal junction. They focus on specific areas like crow’s feet, forehead wrinkles, and facial contours, while also working at different skin levels—from the epidermis to the deeper dermal layers. Interacting with cells such as keratinocytes and fibroblasts, these products aim to improve skin’s overall appearance, texture, and elasticity.

Beyond addressing visible signs of ageing, such as wrinkles and sagging, these products increasingly promise to enhance emotional well-being and sensory experiences. The signs of ageing are influenced by ethnicity; for example, Asian consumers are more concerned with pigmentation and skin tone, while Caucasians often prioritize wrinkle reduction around the eyes and forehead. Anti-ageing claims typically cover improvements in firmness, radiance, volume, and cellular renewal, as well as reducing the appearance of age spots and sagging skin.

Recent research also highlights the complex relationship between skin and brain, where psychological factors like stress and emotions influence skin health. This skin-brain connection plays a key role in modulating immune responses and skin conditions, further emphasizing the holistic approach that modern anti-ageing products take, aiming not only for physical improvements but also for emotional and mental well-being.

THE VARIOUS WAYS TO OBJECTIVATE ANTI-AGEING CLAIMS

Cosmetic brands have a valuable opportunity to substantiate pro-ageing effects through rigorous biometrological and scientific measures. Conducting efficacy studies aligns with regulations in different global regions, with European cosmetics adhering to common Product Information File (P.I.F) guidelines.

To support product claims, adherence to six common criteria is essential (Legal compliance, Truthfulness, Evidential support, Honesty and Security, Fairness and equity, Informed decision making), although specific norms exist for sensory analysis and sun protection index (cf. ISO).Evaluating product properties involves a sensory, sometimes neurosensory, and holistic approach. The impact on quality of life, sensations, and feelings is measured, with investigators selecting tests from five main categories: consumer tests, sensory or emotional analysis, biometrological studies, and clinical scores.

Protocol designs often combine two or three categories to assess a product comprehensively.

Various devices facilitating quantitative, semi-quantitative, or imaging assessments are available for different skincare targets, offering multiple validation methods for product performance. Researchers design multi-parametric protocols based on specific skin effects being studied.

Regardless of study scale, biometrological techniques prioritize precise data acquisition, optimal repositioning, high resolution, quick capture time, and automated rotation systems for accuracy. It’s crucial for investigators to collaborate closely with CROs to meticulously design protocols, define inclusion criteria, establish measurement timelines, treatment conditions, and select optimal devices. Investing time in briefing these essential elements is never wasted; it ensures the integrity and reliability of the study outcomes.

EVALUATION OF ANTI-AGEING PERCEPTIONS

The perception of anti-ageing in beauty has shifted from focusing on chronological age to a more subjective «feeling of age». Consumers and brands now prioritize well-being over rejuvenation. Since the 2010s, advancements in neuroscience have enabled the scientific evaluation of emotional and physiological responses to cosmetics. Six core emotions—pleasure, sadness, fear, disgust, surprise, and anger—are central to these studies, which use methods like facial expression analysis, EEG, and self-assessment. By integrating these tools, brands enhance product development and marketing, aiming to better meet consumer needs through a deeper understanding of emotional responses.

In conclusion, the concept of anti-ageing in the beauty industry has evolved from merely reversing signs of ageing to embracing a more holistic, well-being-focused approach. Brands are now emphasizing support for the ageing process through products that enhance skin health, emotional satisfaction, and sensory experiences. By integrating cutting-edge technologies and understanding emotional responses, the industry is redefining beauty to prioritize overall quality of life and self-care, rather than simply aiming to turn back the clock.