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Whitening & Protection: 6 Highlights by Asia Cosme Lab

17 May 2022

Our most popular seasonal trend report is out! What’s up in Whitening & Protection categories?

  • Whitening category is more than ever expanding in Asia focusing on Science in Japan, Lifestyle in China and Nutriments in Korea.
  • The lexicon is still shifting from Whitening to Brightening with a health-oriented approach. Based on radiance & translucency-boosting on one hand ; and on multi-concerns care on the other hand.
  • UV protection category is still very active and diversifying with new benefits & textures: from beauty boost to a renewed quest for comfort.

 

WHITENING #1 – INSPIRED BY THE SCIENCE OF EPIGENETICS
SHISEIDO focused on new epigenetics findings related to dull skin
=  photoaging caused by UV rays (and other factors) contributes to DNA methylation and the suppression of the TIPARP gene expression.

The development of a new extract, derived from a microorganism living in the deep sea, effectively promotes the expression of the TIPARP gene.

WHITENING #2 – ‘STAY UP LATE’ TREND
‘Stay up late’ is a common lifestyle among young Chinese.
Over 50% of Chinese go to sleep after midnight. This lifestyle causes skin problem including dryness, dullness, dark circles etc.
More sensorial and efficient products are launched on the market to deal with those direct concerns.

WHITENING #3 – VITAMIN P HOT INGREDIENT
Quick scan of key ingredients in Asia in 2022:
• The must-have: Niacinamide (providing multi-tasking cares) and the ever popular Vitamin C (to be found in many launches).
• The newbies: from traditional Asian medicines such as Glabridin (liquorice extracts) from TCM which is nicknamed “the whitening gold” + the Kumkumadi oil based on Ayurveda.

 

UV #1 – AQUA REHYDRATION INNOVATION
The thick sunscreen making grey complexion is a distant memory in Asia.
KAO came up with a new tech for super light texture with deep hydration. They were able to disperse UV-cut ingredients in a water-like (low viscosity) formulation. When you first apply the product, it seems like water, but while you spread it over the skin, the aqua micro-capsules (agar gel) disintegrate and adhere to your skin like a pack.

UV #2 – ACNE OBSESSION IN S.E.A
Even before the pandemic, acne was one of the major concerns in South East Asia. But with all day long mask-wearing and the sun heat, acne/spot concerns are as mandatory as UV care.
New products offer light textures with anti-acne ingredients and matte texture adapted to mask-wearing and hot humid local climate.

UV #3 – MONO DOSE PACK
2 key assets about mono dose are control and functionality
= apply the right amount of UV care
+ easy to carry for reapplying during travels.

 

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by Asia Cosme Lab – April 22, 2022