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Zoom#5: testing trends, cutaneous microbiote and complexion radiance by skinobs

28 September 2017

Please find enclosed our 5th Newsletter: ZOOM#5, special edition for:

  • COSMETIC360  17-18 October – Carrousel du Louvre – Paris
  • SFI2C congress, 23-24 October – Marrakech

Claim substantiation and human testing for cosmetics always remain between science & marketing. Marketers feel more and more comfortable with scientific proofs and vice versa. We will meet both those who are present at Cosmetic360 Paris [booth H29] and SFI2C conference in Marrakech, to pursue our collaborative work of testing intermediation. In this newsletter, we will tell you about the assessment of the cutaneous microbiote and the complexion radiance evaluation on human. We will also provide news of our partners in instrumentation and testing laboratories.

Upload the complete Newsletter: N5-SKINOBS-Newsletter-VLIGHT.2

We will have a focus of the last news of our partners :


  • Cosmepar strengthens its expertise in cutaneous microbiota
  • Pharmascan assesses the performance of aesthetic and biomedical treatments
  • QACS LAB designed for cosmetics testing activity
  • Assessment of cell renewal by Cerco
  • IEC acquires two new imaging devices
  • Spincontrol, expert of CLBT analysis for complexion radiance
  • e-CRF is coming by Cosderma
  • Eotech presents its new device: the Vision’Hair 3D
  • Eurofins acquires Dermatest, the Australian suncare CRO
  • Innofaith introduces a new digital skin evaluation technology that will boost innovation
  • Skin lipidomics by Lipotype: a skin aging tool at the molecular level
  • VivaScope® by Mavig, ideal for complexion studies
  • The Skin Rejuvenation Factor by OxiProteomics


Small extract: The skin microbiota and the cosmetics

100 trillion bacterial cells (microorganisms, bacteria, viruses, fungi, yeasts) are living in our bodies. Everybody wants to know more about the impact of the cosmetics use on the skin bacteria.

The microflora is usually subdivided in 2 groups:

  • the transient flora, saprophytic and pathogens microorganisms with Staphylococcus, aureus, Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas…
  • the resident flora, pathogenic and commensal microorganisms with Proteobacteria, epidermidis, S. hominis Propionibacterium, P. aeruginosa…

The balance of the cutaneous microflora (500 bacteria species) is dependent of the conditions of its ecosystem: temperature, pH, UV, lipids, proteins, etc. It is mainly influenced by the genetic, the life style and the diet. Each person has their own skin flora composition, distributed from the epidermis until the dermis, which is lifelong qualitatively stable, like a personal microbial footprint. This microflora is fundamental for the skin homeostasis and participates to the immune and barrier functions. The cosmetics offer for 2 main benefits: the probiotic-like effect and the anti-microbial effect.

What methods exist today to evaluate the cutaneous microbiota?

The important intra-individual diversity of the cutaneous flora is also associated with a high level of inter-individual variability. Thus, the protocols will compare the skin swabbing of the treated zone and of the non-treated or placebo zone, before and after treatment.

Two main diagnosis opportunities:

  1. Counts method at cell level by Zurko research
  2. Quantitative methods at molecular level:
  • PCRs, polymerase chain reaction by Phylogene
  • rRNA by Dermscan, Dermatec, ProDerm…
  • S16 rDNA + ITS sequencing: microbiote and fungi, by Dermatec, Phylogene
  • Mass Spectrometry: Cosmepar, Spincontrol…
  • High-resolution Nano LC-MS/MS by Phylogene
  • Multi-omics approach (mechanism assessment) by Phylogene

The microbiota will play a key role in the cosmetics of tomorrow. We move towards personalized and preventive cosmetics. Claim substantiation will evolve with the regulation and the products development.



Happy reading!

Anne Charpentier


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