Development of microplastic-free and biodegradable formulations

The environmental impact of cosmetics, particularly makeup, is a growing concern. Many formulations still contain microplastics, which contribute to ocean pollution and negatively affect marine life. In response, biodegradable alternatives are being developed, such as natural polymers derived from algae or cellulose, which are rigorously assessed using standardized biodegradability tests.

Impact of sunscreen filters on marine ecosystems

Certain makeup products incorporate sunscreen filters to protect the skin from UV radiation. However, studies have shown that some chemical filters, such as oxybenzone and octinoxate, disrupt marine ecosystems, particularly coral reefs, by contributing to coral bleaching. Innovative testing methods now exist to evaluate the effects of these filters on coral health. An in-vitro approach using cell cultures from the sea anemone Anemonia viridis, a species closely related to corals, serves as a recognized indicator of coastal marine ecosystem health.

Alternatives to animal testing: in-vitro and in-silico modeling

The cosmetics industry has gradually phased out animal testing, thanks to major scientific advancements in in-vitro testing and analytical methods. Two-dimensional (2D) skin cell cultures, organoids, and three-dimensional (3D) skin models allow researchers to realistically assess the effects of cosmetics on human skin before conducting tolerance tests on volunteers. Additionally, in-silico modeling, which leverages artificial intelligence, predicts ingredient toxicity without the need for animal experimentation.

Main references
Evaluation des produits cosmétiques, L’objectivation – Cosmetic Valley
Skin ageing claims and the multiple opportunities of scientific assessments on subjects, Eurocosmetics – 2024.03
Statista.com – Réseaux sociaux
GCI The bench company – 2025.03
Openstreams Global beauty – 2025.03
K-Beauty Sciences Korea and Japan Trends – 2024.10

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