The field of cosmetic evaluation is vast, and Skinobs is honored to serve as its spokesperson on this occasion. This article provides a concise synthesis of insights gathered from testing providers worldwide. Whether through in-vitro, ex-vivo, or clinical studies aimed at validating the safety, tolerance, and efficacy of cosmetic ingredients, actives, or finished products, the testing methodologies employed in the cosmetics industry exhibit exceptional scientific rigor, methodological diversity, and a strong commitment to innovation -all essential for delivering ever-safer and more effective products to the market. It seems fundamental to us to inform evaluation specialists, test project scientists, cosmetics consultants, laboratory managers, and instrumentation manufacturers to foster knowledge exchange and advance research in this rapidly evolving domain. This collective scientific expertise and technical proficiency enable industry stakeholders to offer state-of-the-art support for cutting-edge evaluation projects within the cosmetics sector.

Cerevaa

As an independent applied research laboratory, Cerevaa designs tailor-made studies to meet industrial challenges. Its expertise is based on Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (NMR), a state-of-the-art technology that allows for an in-depth analysis of molecular interactions. In a dynamic of innovation, Cerevaa has developed advanced methods for evaluating the repairing and moisturizing effectiveness on various skin and hair types. This work has led to the filing of a patent, opening new prospects for the cosmetics industry. His research extends to the prediction of the stability of emulsions, the chemical characterization of active ingredients, the monitoring of the aging of formulas, as well as the evaluation of container/content interactions.

Delphic HSE

Delphic HSE is a global leader in providing Toxicological Risk Assessments for the cosmetic industry. Our expert team ensures the safety of finished products and their chemical components, protecting both consumer health and brand reputation. Utilizing patent-pending database solutions, we deliver high-quality, consistent, and cost-effective product safety services. Our senior staff, with diverse expertise and advisory roles, are committed to industry-wide safety standards. Trust Delphic HSE for expert reviews and guidance, ensuring your products meet legal obligations and safeguard consumer wellbeing.

CIDP

A leading CRO, CIDP offers a comprehensive suite of services, spanning preclinical and clinical testing, biostatistics, data management, and scientific writing, ensuring the safety and efficacy of cosmetic ingredients and formulations. Expanding its expertise to medical device trials, CIDP adheres to ISO 14155 standards for regulatory compliance. With operations across four continents—Mauritius, India, Romania, and Brazil—CIDP leverages a multi-ethnic volunteer panel, enabling multicentric studies with key opinion leaders. The company upholds international SPF evaluation standards and pioneers resistance testing for sweat, friction, and water exposure. With over 20 years of experience and 18,000+ studies conducted, CIDP excels in dermocosmetics, aesthetic treatments, and pathological skin conditions. Its Preclinical Lab integrates PGC-1a activity monitoring, refining mitochondrial function assessment, and employs graph theory-based computation for SEM imaging of extracellular matrices. Certified ISO 9001:2015, CIDP holds EcoVadis Gold, CyberVadis Platinum, and a CDP B rating.

Dermaclaim

Valencian dermo-cosmetic research laboratory Dermaclaim, specializing in efficacy and functionality assessments through in-vitro testing and clinical studies, reported a 38% increase in turnover for the first half of 2024 compared to 2023. Since its establishment in October 2021, the company has conducted 513 projects for 107 clients, analyzing 787 samples. Functional ingredient studies accounted for 57% of revenue, while 43% derived from tests on final cosmetic products and oral nutraceuticals. Additionally, 82% of revenues originated from international clients, with 18% from Spain. To support its expansion, Dermaclaim has acquired a 660 m² facility near its clinical site to unify its laboratory and clinical departments. Construction is scheduled to begin in Q4 2024, with completion expected in Q1 2025. This strategic move underscores Dermaclaim’s commitment to innovation and operational efficiency in the global cosmetic science industry.

Dermaproof Asia

DermaProof Asia located in Bangkok (Thailand), formerly known as Spincontrol Asia, and founded in 2003 is an independent CRO specialized in the evaluation of the efficacy and tolerance of dermo-cosmetic treatments by conducting in vivo tests on healthy Asian subjects. With solid foundations, well-established management of the Quality (we are certified ISO 9001), and well-recognized expertise, they are committed to providing high-quality services to be a leading laboratory for the performance of clinical cosmetic trials in Asia. Their clients come from all over the world: Thailand and South-East Asia of course, but also China, South Korea, Japan, Europe, North America. In addition to dermatological, ophthalmological and dentist-conducted evaluations of the compatibility of test products, most usual standard methods for skin care and hair care products in vivo assessments are available. But, as they strive to provide innovative methods for their clients, new services are in their pipeline for 2025. Official announcements coming soon…

Novobliss

Based in Ahmedabad, India, NovoBliss Research® is a leading CRO specializing in scientifically validated safety and efficacy studies across cosmetics, dermatology, nutraceuticals, and personal care. Founded by Dr. Nayan Patel and Dr. Maheshvari Patel, NovoBliss excels in Real World Evidence Studies and claims substantiation. Pioneering dermatological innovation, The CRO has developed advanced methodologies to induce and measure skin tanning, utilizing both natural sunlight and artificial UV exposure. A recent validation study exposed six healthy adults (Fitzpatrick III-V, ITA° 20°-41°) to controlled UV doses (7600 μW/cm² sunlight; 78-117 mJ/cm² UV lamp), with skin reactions assessed via Draize scale and Mexameter MX-18. Findings confirmed consistent tanning induction, anti-tanning efficacy variations, and excellent safety profiles. NovoBliss standardized methodology establishes a scientifically validated, reproducible framework for UV-induced pigmentation modulation, solidifying its leadership in dermatological product testing and skincare innovation.

GBA Polska

At GBA Polska, safety use tests are conducted under the supervision of medical specialists, including dermatologists, dentists, gynecologists, ophthalmologists, pediatricians, and professionals such as cosmetologists, trichologists, and podiatrists. These evaluations assess skin tolerance at the application site through repeated use, ensuring product safety and compatibility. Performed on diverse volunteer panels, including individuals with rosacea, vascular skin, dandruff, and hyperhidrosis, these tests validate product claims. GBA Cosmetics collaborates with 12 medical specialists, enabling dentists to confirm whitening and plaque reduction claims, pediatricians to assess baby-friendly formulations, and dermatologists and ophthalmologists to verify non-irritant properties. Clinical scoring is conducted by medical professionals or trained technicians using validated assessment scales (EASI, PASI, IGA, CSS, NQAS). Custom scales can be implemented upon request, ensuring precise efficacy and tolerance evaluations tailored to regulatory and scientific standards.

Phylogene

Phylogene is one of leading experts of the comprehensive « free of hypothesis » analysis of the effects of cosmetics on whole skin or skin without its microbiota. With the «omics» and bioinformatics analysis, they offer a broad and « free of hypothesis » evaluation of the effects of cosmetics on the skin and/or its microbiota which can be evaluated after sampling of a challenged skin evaluation of the effects by nanoLC-MS/MS proteomics, phosphoproteomics and complementary bioinformatics analysis with CORAVALIDTM. They propose the evaluation of abiotic stresses (UV, blue light, pollution) complementing the above approach by RedOxMicsTM analysis, the qPCR (targeted) quantification of major genera/species of microbiotas. Comparative metagenomic study of the microbiome by NGSequencing 16S rDNA and/or ITS and comparative functional metaproteomic study of the microbiota and the skin by nanoLC-MS/MS proteomics and data complementary bioinformatic analysis by HolXploreTM enables to deeply dive in the evaluation of the performance of cosmetics.

KeyEmotion Lab

KeyEmotion Lab pioneers’ emotional analysis through advanced cognitive and neuroscientific methodologies, offering scientifically validated predictive metrics for appeal, desirability, and purchase intent. By integrating implicit (non-conscious) and explicit data, it ensures unparalleled scientific rigor. Its methodologies, developed by emotion theory experts and validated through peer-reviewed research, assess consumer reactions to product presentation, sensory experience, and brand influence. Applications include desirability evaluation, product optimization, and competitive benchmarking. KeyEmotion Lab provides comprehensive statistical analyses, enabling clients to conduct in-house studies or outsource full-scale testing and interpretation, ensuring highly reliable, data-driven insights for the cosmetics industry.

PAOTScan

Paotscan® is a French Biotech and Health startup specialized in antioxidant technology and applications for better health. This innovation marks a major advance in the field of connected health. This smart, non-invasive patch offers instant diagnosis of oxidative stress, assessing the balance between antioxidants and free radicals. It also measures the skin’s biological age, PAOT, POT, hydration and pH. The Paotscan’s team offers customized services on 3 levels: customed products, customes apps, in-vitro and in-vivo customed studies. It’s an innovative solution for well-being and health prevention.

React4Life

React4life introduces an innovative Organ-on-Chip assay using the MIVO® (Multi In Vitro Organ) platform, enabling highly precise hydration and barrier integrity evaluations in skin and vaginal tissues. This 3D humanized tissue model outperforms conventional in vitro methods by replicating physiological conditions and supporting multi-age product development. Unlike static cultures, MIVO® integrates biopsies with dynamic fluid flow, offering mechanism-based insights into hydration, barrier function, and aging. This assay facilitates semi-quantitative molecular analysis, ensuring greater precision in dermocosmetic and pharmaceutical R&D. Additionally, React4life’s upcoming TEER-Scan will revolutionize barrier integrity assessments through automated impedance spectroscopy, establishing a new standard for rapid and reproducible data.

Sensenet

Sensenet is evolving with a new Lab, offering new Frontiers in Olfactory Emotion Research! With their recent move, they
now have a dedicated space to further explore the emotional impact of scents through our in-vivo and in-vitro innovations in cosmetics testing. More space means more volunteers, more studies, and an enhanced capacity to investigate the link between fragrance, perception, and emotions. By combining declarative methods (self-reporting, questionnaires, sensory panels) with neuroscientific approaches (implicit testing, physiological measurements, brain activity analysis), they push the boundaries of sensory analysis. A major step forward for the future of sensory and emotional beauty!

Vivosight

VivoSight Optical Coherence Tomography (OCT) is redefining skin imaging and analysis, enabling real-time, high-resolution 3D visualization. Trusted by 4 of the Top 10 global cosmetics and skin health corporations, the cutting-edge VivoSight AI system accelerates R&D innovation with unmatched speed and precision. This technology offers unparalleled skin & vascular visualization which instantly assesses skin roughness, dermal collagen remodeling, epidermal thickness, and microvascular dynamics. The ability to capture a 6mm x 6mm field-of-view with image depth exceeding 1 mm, provides deep structural insights. As a rapid, non-invasive analysis, VivoSight Optical Coherence Tomography achieves quantitative skin evaluations in seconds, streamlining formulation testing and efficacy validation. It reduces reliance on tissue sampling and subjective assessments, enhancing data-driven decisionmaking. This technology accelerates product development and efficacy testing by optimizing formulations, tracking collagen density, hydration, and vascular health non-invasively. Finally, it strengthens consumer confidence with scientifically validated, high-precision data.