On May 14th and 15th, 2025, Lyon became the epicenter of scientific exchange in dermocosmetics as it hosted the 4th edition of Cosmetotest. Organized jointly by Cosmet’in Lyon and Skinobs, this hybrid symposium convened over 250 international participants, including dermatologists, cosmetic scientists, and testing field stakeholders. Across two intensive days, the event showcased the latest advances in preclinical and clinical testing, highlighting the mechanistic insights and innovative methodologies shaping the future of cosmetic research.
The symposium opened with a session devoted to pigmentation, a domain of paramount importance in dermocosmetics development. Speakers presented cutting-edge in vivo assessment tools such as reflectance confocal microscopy, multiphoton imaging, and Raman spectroscopy, enabling precise, non-invasive tracking of melanin distribution and pigmentary changes over time. Beyond imaging, discussions emphasized the identification of novel biomarkers, including melanocyte activity markers, oxidative stress indicators, and inflammatory mediators. Together, these approaches are redefining how efficacy is evaluated in formulations targeting hyperpigmentation and photoprotection.
Building on this, the second session addressed exposome and pollution, examining the cumulative impact of environmental stressors on skin structure and function. Researchers highlighted molecular endpoints such as lipid peroxidation products, DNA damage markers, and pro-inflammatory cytokines to quantify the effects of ultraviolet radiation, airborne particulates, and chemical pollutants. Advanced in vitro and ex vivo models, including reconstructed skin and human explants, were discussed as predictive platforms for assessing protective cosmetic strategies. This session underscored the necessity of integrating mechanistic understanding into product development to mitigate pollution-induced aging and barrier dysfunction.
The third session explored skin vascularization, a critical determinant of skin vitality and responsiveness. Presentations focused on state-of-the-art imaging techniques, including optical coherence tomography, laser Doppler imaging, and hyperspectral analysis, to quantify microcirculation, vascular density, and tissue oxygenation. By linking these vascular parameters to clinical endpoints such as erythema recovery and skin tone modulation, researchers demonstrated how targeted formulations can enhance radiance, alleviate redness, and improve overall skin appearance. This session highlighted the translational potential of combining mechanistic vascular studies with robust clinical evaluation.
Concluding the scientific program, the final session delved into the skin microbiome, a frontier of growing interest in cosmetic science. Experts showcased advanced metagenomic sequencing, meta transcriptomic profiling, and metabolomic analyses to characterize microbial diversity, functional activity, and host interactions. The effects of topical interventions, including prebiotics, probiotics, and bioactive formulations, on microbial balance and skin homeostasis were examined in detail. This session reinforced the concept that effective dermocosmetics strategies must consider the skin ecosystem holistically, promoting both microbial health and barrier integrity.
Cosmetotest 2025 offered more than a showcase of methodologies; it provided a compelling vision of the future of dermocosmetics research. By integrating preclinical mechanistic models, innovative measurement technologies, and clinically relevant endpoints, the symposium demonstrated how scientific rigor drives product innovation, safety, and efficacy. Through lively discussion, collaborative exchange, and exposure to emerging technologies, participants left equipped with actionable insights and a deeper understanding of the complex biological underpinnings that define modern cosmetic science. Cosmetotest continues to solidify its role as a premier platform for interdisciplinary dialogue, shaping the standards and direction of dermocosmetics research for years to come.
Anne Charpentier – CEO SKinobs
acharpentier@skinobs.com
