Anne Charpentier – Founder & CEO Skinobs
acharpentier@skinobs.com
In 2025, the beauty industry stands at the threshold of a profound transformation, driven by digitalization, hyper-connectivity, and an unprecedented demand for evidence-based, personalized skincare. Today’s consumers are not only inclusive and environmentally conscious but also data-savvy, seeking products tailored to their unique biological profiles, lifestyles, and environmental exposures. Building on early personalization initiatives in the 2000s and bespoke shade adaptation in the 2010s, the field now leverages artificial intelligence, advanced data analytics, and miniaturized sensing technologies to deliver unprecedented precision in cosmetic care
Central to this evolution is the integration of skin biomarkers, molecular, proteomic, lipidomic, and biophysical indicators, that provide mechanistic insight into hydration, barrier function, inflammation, oxidative stress, and microbiota composition. Historically assessed on isolated epidermal or dermal cells or reconstructed skin models, these markers can now be measured via advanced, non-invasive sampling methods, including swabbing, tape-stripping. When combined with high-throughput omics analyses, these approaches bridge laboratory-grade precision with real-world, consumer-accessible applications.
This article explores the current landscape and future potential of biomarker-based diagnostics in dermocosmetics. By examining technological, analytical, and methodological innovations, we highlight how connected, portable, and high-resolution tools are poised to redefine personalized beauty, transforming skin assessment from descriptive observation into a predictive and actionable science.
When discussing skin biomarkers, one considers assays classically performed for decades by the cosmetics industry, particularly by active ingredient manufacturers (as more lipophilic actives are more easily tested on cells in a petri dish) on epidermal or dermal cells, or on reconstructed skin models comprising epidermis alone or full-thickness dermis plus epidermis. These models can now incorporate additional appendages, such as capillary or neuronal structures. This topic frequently arose in discussions around posters at the IFSCC 2025 congress.
In these biomarker-driven assays, three main parameters must be considered:
- The biomarker, a measurable indicator of a cutaneous biological process, is typically a molecule, protein, or enzyme. It may also be a biophysical parameter when measurements are performed directly at the skin surface (impedance, elasticity, color, etc.). Will it be possible in the future to measure volatile organic compounds (VOCs)?
- The analytical substrate has evolved rapidly with swabbing and tape–stripping techniques, whose nature does not interfere with analysis. These, in situ, non-invasive, painless samples enable ultra-personalized results that inform product recommendations. Microfluidic sampling of interstitial fluids may emerge in the future.
- The analytical method is central to expectations, as it must be reliable and rapid. Beyond classical protein assays such as ELISA or Western blot, omics analyses provide miniaturization, reproducibility, and near-real-time measurement.
Skin biomarkers, as true biological signatures, are now powerful tools for personalized cosmetic and dermocosmetics studies. At the IFSCC congress in Cannes, L’Oréal presented the Cell–Bioprint, launched in the USA, performing proteomic analyses of three to five proteins to estimate each consumer’s “biological skin age” and provide tailored recommendations.
This revolution in biomarker quantification highlights the diversity of measurable markers, yet a key limitation is that samples predominantly originate from superficial layers. Swabbing collects surface cells, suitable for assessing microbiota, hydration, inflammation, oxidation, and overall barrier function, but precludes evaluation of dermal structural biomarkers. Tape-stripping reaches slightly deeper epidermal layers, while VOC measurements may offer future avenues, though current sensors remain bulky and lab-confined.
Proteomic analysis of stratum corneum samples (e.g., LC-MS/MS) targets keratins (K1, K10, K14…), filaggrin and derivatives (NMF profile), transglutaminases TG1/TG3, cytokines (IL-1α, IL-1RA, IL-8), and oxidized/carbonylated proteins. Proteomics, analogous to genomics for the DNA detection and metabolomics for the metabolites search, reflects functional outcomes: metabolite detection confirms protein activity and effective propagation of DNA-initiated pathways. Rapid lipidomic methods can additionally measure ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids, and squalene.
Advanced studies on skin models or explants allow hundreds to thousands of biomarkers to be assessed, using platforms such as reconstructed skin augmented with capillaries, neuronal cells, microfluidics, or organ–on–chip devices. These approaches provide a versatile framework for elucidating skin biology, monitoring individual responses, and developing precision dermocosmetics interventions.
Regarding biophysical, connected, portable measurements for home use, Pascale Barlier, Jean-Jacques Servant, and colleagues presented results from a panoramic 2024 study. Current mobile device parameters correspond to laboratory testing metrics. Future devices may integrate “medical” or socially influenced metrics reflecting dermocosmetics trends and digital influencer guidance. Outstanding challenges include AI, algorithm interpretation, GDPR compliance, ethnicity-related biases, device technology, connectivity, ergonomics, reliability, robustness, maintenance, and design.
Two primary pathways for the future of beauty science emerge: short-term smartphone-based diagnostics integrating spectroscopy for standardized measurements, and adaptation of existing/emerging medical technologies for home use. These tools may collect data via probes, patches, or swabbing for omics analysis. A futuristic scenario envisions a connected bathroom mirror providing comprehensive skin and hair assessment, a longer-term, more complex solution. Contract Research Organizations (CROs) will be critical for validating these tools, providing essential scientific endorsement beyond commercial purposes. Without rigorous expertise, structured guidance, and supportive interfaces such as conversational agents, portable devices risk remaining mere gadgets. Neurosensory measurements, including EEG-based emotional assessment, can complement traditional and emerging biomarkers to study physical, chemical, and physiological skin changes. Collectively, these technological, analytical, and methodological advances outline a future where home-based, connected skin diagnostics bridge laboratory-grade insights with real-time consumer accessibility. This evolution, fueled by VOC and microfluidic collection, miniaturized omics, and a continuously expanding universe of biomarkers, may ultimately position skin analysis as a diagnostic of overall health, revealing previously inaccessible cutaneous mechanisms.
In conclusion, the convergence of technological innovation, advanced analytics, and deepening biological insight is reshaping the landscape of personalized beauty and dermocosmetics science. The integration of skin biomarkers, high-throughput proteomic and lipidomic analyses, and sophisticated sampling methods has transformed what was once descriptive and largely observational into a precise, mechanistic understanding of cutaneous biology. Mobile and connected diagnostic tools, whether employing swabbing, tape-stripping, microfluidics, or spectroscopy, are bridging the gap between laboratory-grade assessment and real-time, consumer-accessible measurement, enabling skincare solutions that are truly tailored to an individual’s biology, lifestyle, and environment.
Yet, the field remains at an inflection point. While superficial sampling techniques yield rich data on hydration, inflammation, oxidative stress, microbiota, and barrier function, dermal structural biomarkers and deeper mechanistic insights remain challenging to capture in non-invasive formats. Emerging technologies, including VOC sensing, organ-on-chip platforms, and neurosensory monitoring, offer the potential to expand this horizon, providing multidimensional insight into both skin and systemic physiology. Furthermore, rigorous validation through Contract Research Organizations, coupled with AI-assisted interpretation and ethical adherence to data privacy and diversity considerations, is essential to ensure that these tools move beyond novelty and become reliable instruments for research, formulation, and consumer guidance.
Looking forward, the future of beauty science lies in harmonizing miniaturized, high-resolution analytics with consumer-centered usability. From smartphone-integrated spectroscopy to futuristic connected mirrors, these innovations promise not only hyper-personalized skincare recommendations but also unprecedented opportunities to link skin health with broader physiological and lifestyle indicators. As the universe of biomarkers continues to expand and analytical techniques advance, the notion of the skin as a diagnostic window into overall health moves from visionary concept to tangible reality, positioning dermocosmetics science at the forefront of precision health and personalized wellness.
References
Foucher, A., Nouveau, S., Piffaut, V. et al. Clinical vs. chronological skin age: exploring determinants and stratum corneum protein markers of differential skin ageing in 351 healthy women. Sci Rep 14, 23643 (2024). https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-024-65083-4
Menon GK, Cleary GW, Lane ME. The structure and function of the stratum corneum. Int J Pharm. 2012;435(1):3–9. Epub 2012/06/19. 10.1016/j.ijpharm.2012.06.005 – DOI – PubMed
Raymond AA, Gonzalez de Peredo A, Stella A, Ishida-Yamamoto A, Bouyssie D, Serre G, Monsarrat B, Simon M. Lamellar bodies of human epidermis: proteomics characterization by high throughput mass spectrometry and possible involvement of CLIP-170 in their trafficking/secretion. Mol Cell Proteomics. 2008. November;7(11):2151–75. Epub 2008 Jul 12 10.1074/mcp.M700334-MCP200 – DOI – PubMed
L’Oréal / Cell BioPrint & Longevity : https://www.loreal.com/en/press-release/research-and-innovation/loreal-cell-bioprint/
New testing methods in Beauty, new trends and innovative solutions to evaluate in vivo cos-metics efficacy: a technological panorama of nomad and connected diagnostic devices-Leaticia Leunkeu, Pascale Barlier, Anne Charpentier, Jean-Jacques Servant – IFSCC CONGRESS 2025
CONTACT
Anne Charpentier – Founder & CEO Skinobs
acharpentier@skinobs.com
