Jean Robert CAMPOS – Scientific Director
IEC FRANCE
Because the scalp plays an important role in hair health by determining the condition, lifespan, tone and shine of the hair, hair care routines are becoming increasingly complex.
The scalp is sensitive to many external factors (pollution, climatic conditions, etc.), hormonal factors and the products used; these factors will affect the health of the scalp and therefore the health of the hair in the short and long term.
To assess the health of the scalp and hair, IEC recommends using several complementary methods to enable an accurate diagnosis.
Clinical grading specific to the scalp are provided during an In Use Test under Dermatological control or Consumer Test, to assess the effect on dandruff, seborrhea, dryness or redness.
We propose to objectively measure the reduction in dandruff using the C-Cube® (Pixience) or the Dandruff Meter DA 20 ® (C & K) to monitor the quantity and size of dandruff flakes. The rate of desquamation is assessed after sampling by Corneofix ® F20 and analysis by Visioscan ® (C & K).
Measure the reduction in scalp lipids using the Sebumeter ® (C & K) or the Meibometer MB 560 ® (C & K) combined with an adapter that allows measurement with the strip.
Assess the protective effect on the scalp using Tewameter ® TM Nano probe (C & K) as well as the moisturizing effect with the Dermalab PIN hydration probe (Cortex) available in IEC France and IEC Japan.
Biochemical analyses after sampling from the scalp provide the qualitative and quantitative composition of sebum and squalene peroxide as a potential contributor to dandruff.
Measurements of inflammation markers and determination of the microbiota can also be performed.
Certain claims relating to hair, such as “softness”, “shine”, “volumizing”, “smoothing” and “long-lasting shine”, can be evaluated using subjective methods (visual and/or tactile scoring) and combined to the Andrew Walker Hair Typing Scale to define hair types or the effect on curly hair, in particular in IEC South-Africa on Ethnic hair.
“Shine” can be objectified by image analysis using Skin Cam Pro ® (Qima Life Sciences) and the Glossymeter ® (C & K).
The long-lasting and homogeneity of hair dye can be assessed by measuring colours (L*, a*, b*) using C-Cube ® (Pixience) or Chromameter ® (Minolta).
To determine hair regrowth, the C-Cube ® (Pixience) or the TrichoScan ® (Tricholog GmbH), are equipment of interest to assess hair diameter and the percentage of hair in the anagen and telogen phases, in combination to hair sampling which can be analyzed by other SGS centers.
Restructuring effect on the hair shaft by scoring photographs obtained by Scanning Electron Microscopy or Interferometry analysis using software (Toposurf) that determines roughness parameters and the degree of scale opening.
Based on its multi-ethnic panel due to the geographical distribution of its centers [Europe, Asia, Africa] and its integration into the SGS Group, IEC offers a global evaluation of the effectiveness of hair products on the scalp and different hair types.
CONTACT
Jean Robert CAMPOS – Scientific Director
jean-robert.campos@sgs.com
www.iecfrance.com
Discover more about Clinical & Preclinical IEC expertise here:
Clinical: https://www.skinobs.com/c/labo.php?id=7
Preclinical: https://www.skinobs.com/p/labo.php?id=196
