Human hair is a highly structured biological system composed mainly of keratin, lipids and water. Its behavior in response to environmental, mechanical or cosmetic factors depends on the integrity of its internal structure and on the interactions among hair fibers. In this context, styling studies allow an objective analysis of how hair care products modify the shape, alignment and volume of hair, providing scientific data to support claims such as anti-frizz, anti-weigh-down or hairstyle durability.
At Zurko Research, these studies are performed through a methodological approach that combines instrumental assessment, image analysis and expert evaluation, adapted to the specific characteristics of each formulation.
Frizz: A Physical Response to Ambient Humidity
Frizz is the visible manifestation of a physical–chemical phenomenon: the breaking and reformation of hydrogen bonds in keratin as a reaction to changes in ambient humidity. When hair absorbs or releases water, the internal forces that keep the fibers aligned are altered, producing a disordered appearance.
Chemical or thermal damage increases porosity and water absorption capacity, making hair more prone to frizz. For this reason, this parameter is essential in efficacy studies of products aimed at humidity protection and frizz control.
In our tests, frizz is evaluated through image analysis by determining the maximum width of the hair tress after exposure to controlled humidity conditions. This measurement quantifies the degree of expansion and, therefore, the level of frizz generated.
The experiments are commonly performed under controlled low-to-high relative humidity conditions (30% to 80%), simulating what occurs when straightened or styled hair is later exposed to a humid environment. This approach realistically reproduces the daily situations faced by consumers.
Volume, Alignment and Curl Retention: Complementary Efficacy Parameters
Volume is another key parameter in styling evaluation, as it directly influences the perception of lightness, manageability and hairstyle longevity. Excessive volume may be associated with frizz or lack of control, while loss of volume can lead to a heavy or flattened appearance.
To quantify this, we measure changes in tress volume after product application and exposure to controlled humidity. These measurements are complemented by expert evaluation of alignment and width, determining whether the product maintains the desired shape without stiffness or excessive weight.
For curly or wavy hair, additional parameters such as curl retention and curl elasticity are evaluated. Curl retention refers to the product’s ability to maintain the original curl pattern over time or under defined environmental or mechanical stress. It can be quantified through image analysis by measuring curl length, height or curvature radius at different time points.
Curl elasticity, on the other hand, reflects the fiber’s ability to recover its original shape after stretching or deformation. It can be assessed through mechanical or visual observation, indicating whether the curl maintains its natural flexibility while resisting humidity-induced relaxation.
Together, these parameters —tress width, volume, alignment, curl retention and elasticity— provide a comprehensive picture of the hair’s structural behavior under real-life conditions.
Anti-Weigh-Down and Hairstyle Durability Claims
In addition to frizz control, styling studies enable the substantiation of other high-value cosmetic claims, such as anti-weigh-down and hairstyle durability.
The anti-weigh-down claim is related to a product’s ability to maintain the natural lightness and movement of the hair without visible accumulation or loss of volume over time. This effect can be evaluated by comparing the volume and alignment of hair tresses immediately after application and after a defined period of rest or controlled environmental exposure.
On the other hand, hairstyle durability refers to the product’s capacity to preserve the initial style despite physical or environmental stress (repeated combing, humidity cycles, or heat exposure). In these tests, changes in hair volume or shape are quantified after several humidity or manipulation cycles, establishing the product’s ability to maintain the intended hairstyle over time.
These studies provide valuable insights both for formulation development and for the scientific substantiation of cosmetic claims, which are increasingly demanded by consumers and regulatory authorities alike.
A Scientific Approach to Real-World Beauty
The evaluation of frizz, volume and hairstyle durability bridges the gap between scientific measurement and consumer experience. Through reproducible protocols, controlled humidity conditions and image analysis, it becomes possible to translate subjective sensations —such as smoothness, lightness or control— into quantifiable and comparable parameters.
The styling studies carried out at Zurko Research provide a robust foundation to demonstrate the efficacy of products designed for frizz control, heat protection, shaping or long-lasting hold.
By applying scientific rigor to aesthetic observation, we contribute to the development of a more precise and evidence-based hair care industry, where visible beauty is supported by measurable science.
CONTACT
Laura CABRERA – Haircare Technical Director
info@zurkoresearch.com
Discover more about Clinical & Preclinical expertise here:
Clinical: https://www.skinobs.com/c/labo.php?id=88
Preclinical: https://www.skinobs.com/p/labo.php?id=223
