The hair care category, encompassing both treatment and hygiene, is increasingly shaped by the concept of skinification, a movement that treats hair and scalp with the same high-quality ingredients, science, and routines traditionally reserved for skin care. The global hair care market is currently valued at approximately USD 106.9 billion in 2024, and projections indicate it could reach over USD 213 billion by 2032, driven by rising consumer expectations, demographic shifts, and technological innovation. Premiumization continues to influence purchasing behaviors, and digital platforms offer customized regimens that may be combined with nutritional supplements or beauty devices. Women generally prefer conditioners, masks, and treatments, while men increasingly consider hair care a priority within their personal grooming routines. The men’s haircare segment is expanding rapidly, particularly in scalp health and hair-density treatments. Male scalp biology, higher sebum output, androgen sensitivity, and increased inflammation markers, drives development of targeted soothing, anti-sebum, and anti-thinning solutions. The worldwide aging population further boosts demand for products addressing greying, thinning, and maturing hair.
The trend of skinification is burgeoning with a “premium-prestige” effect in markets where the cosmetics industry is mature, such as Europe, North America, Japan, and Korea, and a “masstige” impact in emerging regions like China, Brazil, Vietnam, and Indonesia. In the USA, hair care products priced above $30 continue to outpace mass-market growth, with the premium segment contributing about one quarter of total value. Consumers increasingly focus on scalp health, recognizing its direct influence on follicular activity, sebum composition, and keratin quality. High consumer expectations drive the use of various techniques to validate claims like conditioning, hydration, damage repair, and color protection.
These more sophisticated, multi-benefit products offer substantial opportunities for precise clinical and biometrological evaluations, whether through in-vivo studies on volunteers or ex-vivo assessments on standardized hair strands. Social media amplifies the importance of high-performance routines, accelerating the demand for targeted solutions that address chemical damage, heat styling, environmental stress, and dryness. At the same time, the emphasis on well-being and longevity remains central for consumers seeking nourishing treatments with proven anti-aging performance, aligning with the broader desire to age well.
Hair biology is increasingly studied through the lens of hormonal fluctuations associated with stress, postpartum changes, perimenopause, and menopause. These shifts affect follicular cycling, sebum composition, scalp inflammation, and fiber diameter, creating demand for targeted actives such as phytoestrogens, anti-inflammatory peptides, and mitochondrial-support ingredients.
In 2025, the key drivers of hair care innovation revolve around environmental responsibility, high-performance claim substantiation, and personalization through AI-supported diagnostic systems and tailored product recommendations. Inclusivity, now an essential pillar of the global beauty industry, remains fundamental in hair care due to the diversity of hair types, textures, and cultural grooming practices. According to recent research, the primary attributes defining hair characteristics include texture, curl pattern, and fiber diameter. Scientific study of textured hair now incorporates geometry-based analyses, ellipticity, twist frequency, fiber torsion zones, and porosity gradients, confirming that curlier hair tends to be more fragile in torsion zones and is therefore more prone to breakage compared to wavy or straight hair. These structural features influence hydration dynamics, friction coefficients, mechanical fatigue, and breakage probability, requiring dedicated formulation strategies.
Products formulated for sensitive scalps aim to respect the microbiome, prevent dryness and flaking, reduce dandruff, and incorporate gentle exfoliants to rebalance scalp sebum, particularly relevant in environments where pollution and other exposome factors play a significant role. Brands such as 107 Beauty have developed shampoos designed to soothe irritation, rebalance sebum, and maintain microbial equilibrium, reflecting the industry’s deeper understanding of scalp physiology. In parallel, digital tools such as Lushair, Hairoscope.ai, and MyHair.ai are revolutionizing how consumers and professionals assess scalp and hair conditions. Lushair uses AI-driven high-resolution imaging to analyze scalp sebum, redness, follicle density, and hair shaft quality, while Hairoscope.ai provides clinics and dermatologists with real-time follicle-level insights including miniaturization and hair growth phase analysis. MyHair.ai allows consumers to scan their hair at home and receive personalized recommendations for shampoos, conditioners, and scalp treatments.
Hair itself is deeply investigated to mitigate breakage, frizz, and porosity, while improving strength, shine, and cuticle integrity. Claims related to cuticle protection, repair, densification, and anti-greying are increasingly central to treatment strategies.
Hair is an integral part of one’s identity, and people around the world place a great deal of importance on its look and style. Consumers are now looking for more inclusive, natural, ethical, and sustainable products that can help them improve their hair grooming rituals while still providing the necessary cleansing and caring benefits.
Taking care of the scalp and hair is an essential part of any daily beauty regimen. The 3 main objectives of this routine are mainly:
- Maintain the good condition of this unique scalp-hair ecosystem considering the internal triggers (stress, diet…): Exfoliation, Moisture, sebum, sweat, microbiota (Malassezia), acidic pH …
- Cure and protect it from external aggressions such as UV, heat, and various pollution…
- Give the hair a makeover, make it more attractive and change its style and appearance.
Evaluating the efficacy and safety of hair and scalp grooming products and treatments is a key part of R&D. For this, clinical tests, consumer tests, sensory analysis, biometrological studies, and in-vivo or hair strand tests are used. However, the challenge for evaluation managers and cosmetic chemists is to find the right method, a reliable protocol, and a suitable testing partner.
A multitude of benefits whatever is the type and ethnicity of hair: Care, Volume, Anti-Frizz, Smoothing, Flat Hair, Repair, Gloss, Shine, Color, Fine Hair, Curly Hair, straightening effect, Restore, Anti-Sebum, Anti-Dandruff, UV Protection, Anti-Breakage, Moisturizing…
The various biometrological measurements dedicated to fibers, strands, and hair testing focus on different targets: the scalp, the cuticle, the cortex, the hair structure, and growth. Tests are conducted under controlled conditions (humidity, temperature, hygrometry). Standardized hair tress can simulate real-life aggression including UV exposure, saltwater, chlorinated water, sweat, and thermal stress.
What are the best practices for assessing haircare products? A comprehensive approach should be taken, which includes a panel tailored to the product’s claims, clinical scoring, self-evaluation, instrumental measurements, samples for analysis (such as scanning electron microscopy and microbiota), and illustrative pictures. Additionally, it is recommended to include protocols such as scoring by dermatologists or hairdressers, consumer insights via lifestyle questionnaires, sensory analysis, and emotion studies.
The study of the hair can be classified in 3 main areas:
- The analysis of the chemical properties with the measure of the color and the permeability of the hair,
- The measurement of the mechanical properties of the hair
- The study of the hair volume and the fibers aspect
- The evaluation of the scalp conditions and the aspect of its surface
At Testing Laboratories, hair locks are tested in a controlled environment with a specific temperature and humidity. Standardized hair tresses are used to accommodate different types of hair, such as Caucasian, Asian, Brazilian, African, straight, wavy, or curly. Treatments can be done prior to product application to assess its effectiveness on weakened hair. Additionally, real-life scenarios such as sun exposure, sea exposure, swimming-pool exposure, and sports activities can be simulated to better back up innovative cosmetic claims.
- Chemical properties
- Color and brightness and permeation, Colour Fade, bleaching test using: Goniolux (Orion), GlossyMeter (C+K), SkinColorCatch & SkinGlossMeter, Samba Hair, Mambo, Salsa and Brightness index using the Samba Hair (Bossa Nova), SkinCam & SpectraCam (Newtone), C-Cube CR (Pixience), OptoSurf (Eotech).
- Hair permeability: infra-red microscopy, Confocal microscopy, Scanning electron microscopy, Optical multiphoton tomography, Atomic Force Microscopy …
- Hair protection: against temperature, radiation, chemicals, odour, or anti-pollution assessment. With anti-pollution end points such as Malondialdehyde (MDA), free fatty acids, the melanin and protein content, and Tryptophan degradation.
- Mechanical properties
- Fiber aspects and swelling Analysis: hair cross-section by dimensional Analysis and surface analysis with interferometry and confocal microscopy.
- Mechanical properties analysis (Young’s modulus, Extension to breakage, Stress to break), thanks to the Micro-Tensile Tester MTT675 extensometer coupled to the FDAS. This technique evaluates the impact of hair treatments on the mechanical characteristics of the treated fibers.
- Combing and abrasion of the hair: Friba.one,Sirtaki (Bossa Nova), Fibrestress. Micro-Tensile Tester MTT175 extensometer.
- Hair volume and straightness, and anti-frizz effect: 3D reconstruction of a Bolero and Rumba (Bossa Nova).
- Scalp conditions and skinification performance
Are you an R&D manager or Cosmetics chemist looking to study the scalp? If so, you can access the Clinical testing Platform for free and find all the instrumentation and tests used to analyze the scalp. These tests are adapted to the surface topology and size of the area being studied and can be conducted in-vivo on men or women. The results can be quantified and visualized to get the best results you want for your products or actives.
How do the methods used to study the scalp compare to those used to study the skin?
- Moisturizing effet: MoistureMap & Corneometer(C+K), Dermalab Hydration, Aquaflux & Epsilon (Biox), MoistureMeter SC, MoistureMeterEpi, MoistureMeterD, C-Cube (Pixience)
- Barrier Function and scalp protection: Vapometer, Aquaflux (Biox), pH-meter measures, or the Tewameter Nano (C+K). Scalp visualization: VisioScan (C+K), Antera 3D (Miravex), C-Cube (Pixience), Skin Damage Vizualizer and all dermoscopes…
- Soothing effect: Tivi 700 & Tivi 8000 (Wheesbridge), Thermographie infrar-red, Neurometer, C-Cube (Pixience) …
- Seboregulation: QuantiSeb, DermaLab Sebum, Sebumeter (C+K), SebumScale including sebum analysis: Shotgun mass spectrometry, Metabolimic MS/MS-16srDNA-PCR (Phylogene), Raman microscopy, ATR-FTIR spectroscopy (Newtone)…
- Anti-Dandruff by gravimetry and imaging, DandruffMeter (C+K), C-Cube (Pixience) …
- Hair loss and hair growth and density by phototrichogram, C-Cube (Pixience), Trichoscan, SkinCam (Newtone).
- Microbiome of the scalp: Propionibacterium acnes, Staphylococcus epidermidis, Malassezia. Metagenomic analysis such as 16s ribosomal gene sequencing (Phylogene).
As consumers become increasingly aware of the need for eco-responsibility, a new trend is emerging in the form of biodegradability and ecotoxicology tests. Additionally, tests are being developed to measure the rinsability: amount of water needed to rinse both solid and liquid products, to evaluate the biodegradability and the absence of critical chemicals for the environment.
The field of hair care science is evolving significantly, driven by biological research, advanced materials, and artificial intelligence, leading to innovative developments. These advancements are transforming hair treatment and maintenance, although their ability to fully meet consumer expectations remains uncertain. Recent trends highlight technologies aimed at repairing hair damage from chemical treatments by restoring essential bonds within the hair structure, inspiring innovations with various compounds. For instance, Olaplex remains a reference with its “Complete Bond Technology,” repairing disulfide bonds and restoring hair strength. Additionally, there is a trend towards incorporating skin care benefits, such as anti-aging properties and scalp treatments, into hair care products. Scalp care has seen substantial progress, moving beyond addressing flakes and dandruff to enhance overall scalp health, thereby improving hair health. The integration of AI with these technologies offers significant potential for enhancing product efficacy and personalization.
How is the new digital era impacting the beauty lifestyle and the personalization of the hair care experience? It is pushing hair salons into the digital age with the use of hair diagnostics and augmented reality solutions. For example, the company Revieve offers an AI-based Hair Care Advisor that analyses hair & scalp (via upload/photo) and recommends products & personalized hair care treatment on-site based on a client’s hair data.
Hair treatments must now address the restoration of routine damage, including chemical treatments such as coloring, bleaching, and perming; UV exposure; heat application; and physical stressors from combing and brushing. This damage is particularly significant as they can compound one another, exacerbating perceptions of dissatisfaction. Consumers have a genuine expectation for effective reparative care that scientifically demonstrates its efficacy.
CONTACT
Anne Charpentier – CEO & Founder
www.skinobs.com
