The cosmetics industry is undergoing rapid transformation, driven by the emergence of new technologies and increased demands for safety and sustainability. Among the critical challenges facing the industry today is the regulatory landscape surrounding per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS). Known for their extreme durability and film-forming properties, PFAS have long been used in cosmetic formulations, particularly for long-wear products like foundations and waterproof mascaras. However, growing environmental and health concerns have led to increasingly stringent regulations.

In this context, the U-Skin and T-Skin technologies play a pivotal role, enabling the swift identification of high-performance alternative ingredients that align with evolving safety standards.

A highly regulated market in transition

PFAS, often called “forever chemicals” due to their persistence in the environment and potential for bioaccumulation, are at the heart of a global regulatory debate. Several studies have linked certain PFAS, such as PFOA, to adverse health effects, including hormonal disruptions and cancer risks. Consequently, many regions are enacting strict restrictions on these substances. The European Union, for instance, has imposed stringent limits on PFAS, while similar initiatives are underway in the United States and other areas.

For brands, this means reevaluating their product formulations, especially for items requiring long-lasting effects or water resistance. Finding effective alternative ingredients that can replicate these properties without compromising on safety or environmental impact has become essential. This is where in vitro testing technologies like U-Skin and T-Skin prove invaluable.

U-Skin and T-Skin: Introducing the technologies

The U-Skin and T-Skin devices are designed to simulate human skin conditions in a controlled environment. U-Skin provides ingredient performance testing in just a few hours, while T-Skin, capable of mimicking sweat and sebum production, assesses the longevity and impact of formulations in conditions similar to real-world wear.

A key strength of these technologies is their ability to accelerate the in vitro testing process. For example, one hour of exposure on T-Skin equates to a full 24 hours on human skin, allowing rapid predictions of a formulation’s effectiveness and durability. As such, these technologies are ideally suited for evaluating PFAS alternatives, testing whether they offer comparable properties in terms of resistance, adherence, and film-forming effects.

Identifying High-Performance alternative ingredients

With increasing restrictions on PFAS, cosmetic brands are actively seeking alternative ingredients with similar performance. U-Skin and T-Skin streamline this search, enabling the testing of a wide range of compounds in conditions that closely replicate human skin. These technologies can, for example, identify naturally-derived polymers or bio-based ingredients capable of forming hydrophobic and durable films—ideal replacements for PFAS in products like foundations and mascaras.

This process, often referred to as “screening,” allows R&D teams to move swiftly from discovery to product development by testing and comparing multiple options to assess their real-world performance. The advantage for brands is twofold: they can ensure product compliance with new standards while meeting consumer expectations for effective, safe, and sustainable cosmetics.

By incorporating U-Skin and T-Skin into their development processes, cosmetic manufacturers gain access to precise, fast data that establishes new industry standards. These results enable brands to predict the wear of a foundation, confirm the barrier effect of a moisturizer, or verify the resistance of a mascara—all without relying on PFAS.

These advances not only reduce development time and costs but also bolster brand credibility, as companies can support product claims with objective, independent performance data. With U-Skin and T-Skin, products can be launched with proven effectiveness, providing an optimal response to both consumer expectations and regulatory demands.

Conclusion

U-Skin and T-Skin offer powerful solutions for cosmetic brands seeking high-performance PFAS-free alternatives. By faithfully replicating skin conditions in a fast and reliable manner, they enable the development of products that meet safety, performance, and compliance standards. In a market increasingly focused on sustainability and transparency, U-Skin and T-Skin have become essential tools for the cosmetics industry of tomorrow.

Fabrice MONTI
CEO

Contact

Fabrice Monti

CEO Microfactory

site: www.microfactory.eu
email: fabrice.monti@microfactory.eu