FOCUS #9: Established measurement systems from one hand around your anti-ageing research by C+K

5 December 2023

The desire to stop or even reverse skin aging is as old as mankind. The topic of anti-aging is still one of most researched in cosmetic investigations.

Naturally, one of the most important aspects of anti-aging research is the topography of the skin, especially the analysis of deep lines & wrinkles and the micro-relief.

The multi-talented Visioscan^® VC 20plus skin camera based on special UV-light illumination takes non-glossy, detailed images of the skin. Its unique parameters SELS (surface evaluation of the living skin) quantify skin surface topography in terms of lines, roughness, smoothness and scaliness as perceived with the human eye. Also, directionality of skin texture lines and fineness of the surface texture can be calculated on the acquired pictures.

The proven Visioline^®/Quantirides^® system is the ideal and economic instrument to objectively analyse deep lines and macro wrinkles such as “crow’s feet”. Its measuring principle, illuminating detailed Silflo^® replicas by oblique light, is well-known and published in various studies. It has just undergone a massive make-over with brand new software with many new features and highly accurate improved calibration algorithms. In addition to the important parameters of wrinkle depths (in µm), lengths and areas of large wrinkles such as crow’s feet, the roughness of the skin micro-relief

can also be calculated in seconds with the well-known R-parameters. Since skin surface replicas can be collected easily anywhere in the world, the Visioline^®/Quantirides^® is the perfect tool for international multi-center studies.

Assessing the skin micro & macro relief has never been so easy.

With increasing age, skin elasticity and firmness will decrease. The Cutometer^® is by far the most used device in this field. In the numerous literature available, it is also referred to as cutometry, honouring its benchmark status. Through the suction measurement principle of the device, parameters such as firmness (skin ability to resist mechanical stress), elasticity (immediate recovery after stress) and skin energy (skin behavior after repeated stress) are determined. New parameters such as “maximum collagen power” complement the world-renowned Cutometer^® measurement in the latest, sophisticated software MPA CTplus.

Youthful skin is characterized by a radiant and even complexion. Therefore, skin colour measurements constitute a vital part of efficacy testing for products fighting the biological clock. The Mexameter^® assesses even slightest changes in melanin and erythema, the two main factors for the perceived skin colour. Not only uneven distribution of pigmentation and pigmented lesions, especially at body areas exposed to the environment, specifically to sun light and air pollution, are signs of (premature) skin aging. The loss of strength in the collagen fibers holding down the micro vessels also results in them rising closer to the skin surface. At the same time the blood vessels themselves will dilate due to the weakening of their walls. Altogether, this will cause pronounced redness at certain areas with progressing age.

The new Skin-Colorimeter Flex CL 440 expresses the colour in the CIE L*a*b colour space. The calculated ITA value (Individual Typology Angle) is established to describe skin colour types. Due to interchangeable measuring tips that optimally illuminate larger and smaller skin areas and a unique placement aid by overlapping light spots, the Skin-Colorimeter Flex CL 440 is particularly suitable for measuring age spots as it enables you to precisely hit and measure the skin site in question.

With increasing age and hormonal changes, especially for women, menopausal skin tends to become drier in terms of hydration and sebum. In order to keep the skin supple, adequate cosmetics need to replenish these losses. Therefore, other measurements frequently used in anti-aging research are those of Corneometer^® Sebumeter^® and Tewameter^®, all three regarded as the respective gold standard devices for assessing skin hydration, sebum, and barrier quality. Additionally, the measurement of the skin pH value by the Skin-pH-Meter is quite useful, especially for studying its impact on the skin microbiome that changes with age and the importance of which cosmetic science is just beginning to understand.

The flexible, economic Courage + Khazaka devices allow starting with your most important focus and expand the system with time. Start with easy-to use in-house anti-aging efficacy studies in all stages of your formulation to ensure you are giving out the best product you can do.

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