From ‘Functions and Sensibility’ to ‘Biological and Data’… It should evolve into K-beauty ‘Science Beauty’
The ‘Cosmetotest 2026’ held from March 18th to 19th in Lyon, France was a clear indication of the recent paradigm shift in cosmetic research and development.
I could feel that the cosmetics industry is moving away from the emotional and functional industry and evolving into a biological and data-driven precision science industry.
About three hundred cosmetic scientists from around the world have recently demonstrated that cosmetic research flows have gone beyond mere functional competition to a phase of looking at skin as an integrated biological system.
They predict that in the future, the focus of cosmetic research will be led by four fields: hormones, exposomes, moisturizing, and skin-brain axes.
One of the most prominent features of this symposium is the shift in research direction from “what is effective” to “why it is effective”.
In particular, many scientists have shown that skin aging is a nonlinear biological process of hormonal changes, not just time-lapse, through research on postmenopausal female skin changes. This suggests the possibility that the future direction of cosmetics development will be reorganized based on a life cycle rather than an age-oriented one.
The “exposome” study, which refers to the overall impact of environmental factors, has established itself as the most important keyword in dermatology. Quantitative analysis of the effects of complex external factors such as ultraviolet rays, pollution, heat, and chemicals on the skin and hair, and the role of cosmetics in defending them has been emphasized, confirming that the center of cosmetic research is shifting from “improvement” to “protect”.
“Hydration,” considered to be the most basic property of cosmetics, was also being expanded by new research attempts. A multi-dimensional evaluation method, which includes transdermal water loss (TEWL), skin barrier function, and interaction with microbial groups, is introduced, and moisturizing is seen as a key indicator that requires scientific precision, not function anymore.
Another notable research direction is the Skin-Brain Axis.
As research on the use of cosmetics expanded to measure sensations and emotions, as well as brain responses, the efficacy of cosmetics was expanding to include not only physical changes but also emotional experiences. This foreshadows the growth of a new market called “neuro-cosmetics” in the future.
At the heart of the above-listed changes is a common “quantitative proof of efficacy.” AI-based skin image analysis, omics, and non-invasive biomarker measurement technology are rapidly being introduced, and the cosmetics industry is being reshaped into a data-driven industry based on science and object.
This trend in the “Cosmetotest 2026” has important implications for domestic cosmetic research. First of all, the existing whitening, wrinkle, and moisturizing-oriented functional categories have reached their limits, and the skin biology base such as hormones, stress, microbiome, and exosomes is rapidly emerging.
In particular, in the global market, the fact that “efficacy is scientifically proven” rather than the claim that “enhancement is effective” has emerged as the core of competitiveness.
Dr. Lee Bum-cheon, who participated in the event, said, “Domestic companies still have a gap in global leadership in terms of clinical design, data analysis, and dissertation capabilities.”
“The use and emotional experience that has been considered to be the strength of K-beauty until now is also now subject to scientific verification, so it is urgent to secure the ability to prove it with data beyond the development of emotional-oriented products.”
[Dr. Lee Bum-Cheon proposes K-beauty response strategy]
1. We need to move away from a product-centric approach and strengthen our scientific-based brand strategy. It is necessary to build a structure that organically connects clinical data, papers, and conferences, and internalize claim substantiation as a core competency.
2. Hormone and life cycle-based skincare market preemption is needed. Menopausal skincare, hormonal acne, etc. are already fast-growing categories in the global market, and it is important for domestic companies to establish themselves in this field through proactive product development.
3. We need to expand the Expo’s response product line. It must evolve into an “exposome defence/protection” concept that goes beyond simple anti-pollution to defend the entirety of environmental stress, which could be a new growth engine for K-beauty in the global market.
4. A premium strategy that redefines moisturizing is required. Beyond the hydration, there is a need for a multi-layered approach that encompasses barrier recovery, water retention, and microbial balance.
5. We need to secure the strengths of K-beauty in the area of neurocosmetics. Through research that scientifically connects sensory experience and emotional satisfaction, existing strengths can be developed into new competitiveness.
6. Securing a global level of clinical and data infrastructure is essential. Without multi-ethnic clinical data and trial design that meets international standards, it is difficult to secure trust in the global market, so it is necessary to expand cooperation with domestic and foreign research institutions.
