① [OVERVIEW] “Cosmetotest 2026”
The cosmetic science paradigm shift confirmed: from “function and sensoriality” to “biology and data”
The Cosmetotest 2026 symposium was held on March 18-19, 2026, in live and remote format, from Lyon, France.
One overarching trend clearly emerged from this event: quantified proof of efficacy. AI-based skin image analysis, omics, and non-invasive biomarker measurement technologies are rapidly being adopted, and the cosmetic industry is redefining itself as a data-driven, science-based sector.
The trends observed at Cosmetotest 2026 provide important insights for domestic cosmetic research. First, traditional core functional categories — whitening, anti-wrinkle, moisturizing — are reaching their limits, while skin biology foundations (hormones, stress, microbiome, exosomes) are rapidly gaining ground. Second, in global markets, the competitive edge no longer lies in claiming “this product works,” but in demonstrating that “this efficacy is scientifically proven.”
Another noteworthy research direction is the Skin-Brain Axis. Studies measuring the sensations and emotions experienced during cosmetic use — including brain responses — are expanding, broadening the concept of efficacy well beyond physical changes to include emotional and subjective experience. This foreshadows the growth of a new market: neurocosmetics.
② [REVIEW] “Hormones · Exosomes · Skin · Brain” — Latest Research Trends in One Place
By Lee Beom-cheon, CEO of HumanSkin (Ph.D)
Session 1. Hormones and Their Influence on Skin and Hair Clinical Studies Conducted on Cosmetic Products Related to Menopause [Anne Sirvent | Eurofins Dermscan]
This clinical presentation session on menopause-related cosmetics explored dermatological changes in menopausal women. Population aging — particularly among women — is fundamentally transforming beauty care expectations. In France, one in four women is aged 60 or over, and this proportion continues to grow.
This phenomenon is linked to increased life expectancy, as well as hormonal changes that directly affect skin, hair, and emotional balance. The peri-menopausal period is a transitional phase for the skin: it becomes dry and sensitive, loses elasticity and density, and symptoms such as redness, hot flashes (sometimes accompanied by sweating), hormonal acne, and hair loss may appear.
These visible signs reflect physiological changes, and hormonal shifts also exert significant influence on psychological balance: sleep and concentration disorders, mood swings, and loss of self-confidence. Cosmetic brands now have a responsibility to offer tailored solutions to improve skin health and overall confidence during key hormonal transition periods.
Cosmetic evaluation protocols must also evolve to meet this new reality. In particular, clinical trial panels must include peri-menopausal women presenting specific symptoms.
Facial Skin Aging Across the Menopausal Timeline: An In Vivo Biometric Study [Maya Naboulsi, Clarins]
Female skin aging is not a linear process. Beyond simple chronological aging, menopause triggers marked biological changes. A study analyzed skin changes throughout the menopausal timeline, with a specific focus on comparing perimenopause and early menopause. 121 healthy Caucasian women aged 30 to 65 were divided into four groups: pre-menopause (n=30, aged 30-40), perimenopause (n=30, aged 45-55), early menopause (≤5 years post-menopause, n=30, aged 45-55), and late menopause (>5 years post-menopause, n=31, aged 60-65).
Non-invasive facial assessments included sebum measurement, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), stratum corneum water content, skin mechanical properties, and standardized facial photography. Post-menopausal skin aging proved significantly accelerated compared to pre-menopausal women.
Aspalathin-Rich Extract: A Peripheral Modulator of the Skin-Brain-Hormonal Axis for Holistic Anti-Aging Skincare in Men [Magalie Cabannes | Greentech]
Cosmetic ingredient company Greentech presented “aspalathin-rich extract (AE): a peripheral modulator of the skin-brain-hormonal axis for holistic anti-aging skincare in men.” The bidirectional communication between skin and brain is emerging as a key scientific paradigm in the cosmetic industry. The conclusion was that cutting-edge scientific methods and specialized expertise make it possible to objectively and accurately measure the positive impact of products on well-being.
“Science based claims in dermocosmetics: understanding the new challenges”
[Anne Charpentier | Skinobs]
Anne Charpentier, the organizer of this symposium and head of Skinobs — which operates an institution specialized in clinical and preclinical platforms — presented on the theme “Science-based claims for dermocosmetic products: understanding the new challenges.” To understand the evolution of the cosmetic-evaluation industry, one must closely analyze the global trends shaping product innovation, regulatory compliance, and scientific communication.
The evolution of cosmetic testing is driven by technological advances, changing consumer expectations, regulatory frameworks, and environmental considerations. For many years, cosmetic testing has acted as a core element of product development, from early research and development through formulation development, regulatory compliance, and the scientific verification of active ingredients and finished products. Today, the beauty industry is striving to promote collaboration among brands, skin and medical specialists, and experts from various fields, by linking ever more closely with scientific research.
In vitro analysis, biometric measurements, and clinical research ensure evidence-based product verification, thereby strengthening claims regarding safety and efficacy and increasing consumer trust and brand credibility. Based on the insights gained at international conferences, CRO (contract research organization) visits, and expert discussions, new trends and innovations should be identified in order to foster the continuous development of testing methodologies.
Through this analytical approach, scientific excellence can be spread and research and industry can be connected, to advance trustworthy, cutting-edge cosmetic evaluation.
③ [INTERVIEW] — Anne Charpentier, Cosmetotest Organizer
“Growing it into the leading platform where cosmetic-evaluation scientists exchange”
Editor’s note — The cosmetics industry is being rapidly reorganized around “proof of efficacy.” Beyond simple emotional messaging, scientifically grounded, data-based evidence now determines a product’s competitiveness. At the center of these changes, the global platform “Cosmetotest,” specialized in cosmetic evaluation (testing), is drawing attention. Cosmetotest 2026, held in Lyon on 18 and 19 March, brought together testing institutions, equipment companies, and brand R&D experts. The K Beauty Science interviewed Anne Charpentier, the organizer of Cosmetotest.
Q. What was the background and the main purpose that led you to plan Cosmetotest?
In the spring of 2020, while the lockdown situation was dragging on due to the COVID-19 pandemic, the Skinobs team keenly felt the need for a venue where the key stakeholders of the cosmetic testing and evaluation field worldwide — beginning with France — could exchange offline once again.
Accordingly, we wanted to foster scientific discussion on the evaluation of raw materials and finished products, and to create a venue for exchange encompassing in vitro and in vivo test methods. Cosmetotest was conceived as a new science-and-technology event on a human scale; its distinctive feature is that it goes beyond simple academic presentations to include actual equipment demonstrations and “Short Talk” sessions devoted to commercial and technical advances.
Q. What are the points of differentiation compared with existing or similar events?
The Cosmetotest Symposium requires scientific grounds for all of a product’s claims. The PIF (Product Information File) includes the results of toxicity, safety, and efficacy evaluations; and, except for SPF, no specific test method is mandated.
In other words, companies may freely choose between traditional and innovative methods. However, they must satisfy the following 6 criteria: legal compliance, truthfulness, evidence base, honesty, fairness, and consumer information. This structure provides an environment that protects the consumer while fostering technological innovation.
Q. What are the main challenges facing global companies?
Global companies must satisfy the differing regulations of each country at once — the United States, Korea, Japan, Europe, China, and so on. Generally, a company verifies efficacy at the R&D stage, then finalizes the final message through the regulatory department and the scientific-communication department. In Europe, Korea, and Japan in particular, product efficacy evaluation remains a core investment area.
Q. How do you see the possibilities for cooperation between Europe and Asia?
Active exchange of technologies and raw materials has taken place between the two regions over a long period. Recently, in line with global market strategies, local testing based on target consumers has been gaining importance. For example: Indian anti-acne product → test on a local Indian panel / Korean anti-aging product (launched in France) → test on a European panel, etc. In addition, in the field of measurement equipment, there is a flow of technology transfer from Europe (France, Germany) to Asia. In this context, Cosmetotest is an important platform that connects global evaluation experts.
Q. What are the cooperation opportunities with K-Beauty?
Korea is the country with the highest level of testing infrastructure in Asia. Moreover, the technical level of Korean testing institutions is very high, comparable to Europe. Meanwhile, equipment innovation in Europe (Newtone, DAM-AE, Eotech) and Asia (Beyoung, etc.) is a key driving force for cooperation between the two regions.
Q. What influence will this symposium have on companies’ R&D and marketing strategies?
At this event, the latest scientific information in the evaluation field was provided through 20 lectures across 4 core themes, 20 Short Talks, and more than 30 exhibiting companies. With the participation of experts from various countries and professions, the event offered attendees inspiration for the development of new protocols and the adoption of innovative evaluation methods.
Q. What core keywords should beauty companies pay the most attention to?
If I were to single them out by keyword, they are as follows: inclusivity, biomarkers, real-life testing, advanced in vitro models (neurons, melanocytes, adipocytes, etc.), microfluidics, AI, home diagnostics, omics, the skin-brain axis, neurosensory evaluation, microbiome, personalization, longevity, and post-menopausal skin.
Q. In what direction do you plan to develop Cosmetotest going forward?
Cosmetotest aims to establish itself as the leading platform where scientists in the field of cosmetic evaluation exchange. We also plan to maintain an open exhibition environment in which everyone from start-ups to large global companies can participate. In the future, holding an edition in Asia is also being studied as an important strategic option. Finally, while maintaining an offline-centered experience, we will continue to expand digital participation opportunities as well.
