Transderma Systems and Kamax Innovative System have jointly developed the dual cuticle integrity protocol, an advanced evaluation method designed to objectively assess the efficacy of hair care products and devices.
This protocol enables, within a single study, the simultaneous analysis of two complementary dimensions of hair “health”: cuticle porosity, reflecting the integrity of the cuticle barrier, and surface roughness, a key indicator of cuticle scale condition and overall hair surface quality. Together, these parameters provide a coherent and physically grounded assessment of cuticle integrity, directly connected to the performance claims commonly made in hair care.
Cuticle porosity is assessed through the diffusion of a calibrated fluorescent tracer, analysed by confocal microscopy on transverse sections of hair fibres. The extent of tracer penetration enables precise quantification of cuticle permeability and cohesion. In parallel, surface roughness is quantified using XFluo® 3D imaging technology, developed by Kamax Innovative System. High-resolution three-dimensional reconstruction of the hair surface allows measurement of the Rq parameter, providing robust and reproducible data on cuticle smoothness and surface uniformity.
Both measurements are performed on the same hair tresses, before and after product application, under strictly standardised experimental conditions. This unified approach ensures direct comparability of results and a consistent interpretation of product effects on the external structure of the hair fibre.
The dual cuticle integrity protocol is applicable to all hair types (traight, wavy, curly or coily) and across multiple ethnic origins, including Caucasian, Asian and South American hair. It also integrates controlled stress conditions, such as thermal exposure, chemical treatments (including bleaching), and environmental stressors such as UV radiation, enabling realistic simulation of consumer use conditions.
By combining quantitative measurements with structural imaging of the hair fibre, the protocol supports claims related to protection against external aggressions, reinforcement of cuticle cohesion, repair of damaged cuticles, cuticle smoothing, and reduced damage induced by thermal tools or bleaching processes.
The dual cuticle integrity protocol will be presented at in-cosmetics, booth 1C70b (Transderma Systems) and booth 2L40 (Kamax Innovative System).
Contact
www.kamax-innovative.com
www.transderma.fr/
